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I would seal the gap with stixall, tank the walls using solution. Use the tape in the vertical corners and at the base of the wall - running it 4/5mm onto the top of the tray, this will be covered by the tiles.

Yes good idea, that’ll work

Or trying to get someone else to do it for you, more accurately.

I would chop the tray into the wall, as would most people…

Do you seriously think they will still be for sale????

Wet cut, or quality diamond disc in a grinder if you’re any good with one.

Silicon……..is better,,,,,,,,,,

As they are dot and dabbed there is no way anyone sensible is going to recommend what you propose. Take them off and prepare the surface properly, I’m sure you know this really.

Wouldn’t 6mm hardie be better than 5mm ply?

If the floor is uneven, use the tile adhesive to level it out as you put the boards down. Use rapid set but - wait until the addy has gone off before you screw down with washers and screws. The adhesive is to give you a solid level base below the boards, not to ‘fix’ them. The screws are to fix...

A lot of those glues will attack the back of the mirror. If the ply is the correct thickness - I would use that. Seal around all edges and front and back a couple of times before you glue and screw it to the wall. The use mirror adhesive - nothing will go wrong don’t worry.

Yes, wait three months - plenty of thinking time!

A more extensive repair may be needed in that case, make sure the tanking is in tact/ redo it before tiling....

I’d stick to big sheets with gap at perimeters, better for rigidity.

Assuming it’s not a wet area (I don’t know what you get up to in your bedroom!) you can tile onto the plasterboard. Should save you some pennies.

I like Dow Corning; use for white, clear, jasmine, Ivory (is it 1980?) For colours I use Mapesil, although I sometimes find it a bit “thin”, it has a great range of colours. In reality I usually use this for verticals and boxing etc. The more critical joints; tray/wall, bath/wall I use white...

I like to set a batten around the room at the height I want the second row to be and tile the walls up from that. This means you can’t accidentally damage the floor (‘cos you have done it yet!) Then tile the floor. Then do the row of bottom cuts for the walls, I like the idea of wall on top of...

If you’re going to tank it, may as well save your money and use plasterboard underneath the tanking. Pointless fully tanking a waterproof board...

To be fair to hk940 this is more a reflection on the poor quality ply that we now seem to get in this country.

Why so many to change a shower? That’s 3.3sq m! Is the plumber heavy handed? Usually if changing a valve it’s only a couple of tiles, often this can look good by making a contrasting ‘patch’ as you suggest maybe with mosaics.