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I'd now ask him to guarantee his work in writing for 5 years, and only under his personal name (which it ultimately would be if he's a sole trader). If he is operating under a limited company, then don't allow a guarantee from his company name, as he could easily just close down the business in...

First question is are these natural stone mosaics going to be suitable in a wet area? If they can't be grouted, or sealed, then no. If using a different thickness in mosaic tiles (thinner than the field tile), then use a plastic backer sheet as suggested, but I always skim the back of these...

Limestone is alkali. Acid will dissolve it and the grout. Call Lithofin

I cannot emphasise enough that the subfloor (the bare floor) needs to be stable before over-boarding. This means making sure that there is no movement at all before boarding over it. Once this is good, lay the 10mm insulation panels with washers every 300mm, staggering the boards so that no 4...

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If in doubt, don't tile it. Even if you boarded this floor with 12mm cement board, fixed to all joists, and used an S2 fibre-reinforced or 2-part latex tile adhesive, both of these adhesives do not allow for vertical movement, only lateral. Far too risky for tiling unless you want a 50mm step to...

The layout has gone horribly wrong. Not sure why as the classic mistake is not realising the walls are not plumb as the installer goes up the wall from the first bottom course with a full tile, but it seems this was easily apparent as the cuts are tiny all the way up. I think this is just a poor...

Can't say I'm sorry really. Rubbish tiles.

I don't recommend the use of these. A major flaw is that if you are lifting a tile to meet another, a void will be created where there is insufficient adhesive underneath the tile, causing a weakness. This type of device will cause the most vulnerable part of a tile to be prone to damage as it...

If your floor boards are really solid/stable, fix a 6mm solid cement board (Hardibacker), or if you want to save money longterm, use a 10mm insulation tile backer board (Jako). The insulation board will save you money as the heat from the UFH will go up, not down. As above, I would use a 5mm...

In a word, NO. Tiling onto plywood is a bad idea, even if the builder insists it's marine ply (it won't be, more likely WBP). In wet areas, it's a definite no-no. The walls and floors should have boarded onto stable joinery work using cement boards of a thickness of 12 mm on the walls and 6mm...