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The clip-system crew are just lazy. I level a floor properly in the first place if required, then tile it. I use a little bit more adhesive where necessary, and use a solid bed thick bed always. I don't allow voids that are prone to breaking which clip systems create. You sound like a man who...

Dunno, but I can see that the installer has used ready-mixed adhesive which is unsuitable for those porcelain tiles. Also, the installer has used grout instead of Silicon in the corner. I'm guessing you have a tile failure to deal with?

Hi Dave, Lithofin are pretty reliable products for protection and maintenance of tiles, and they do a Grout Protector. Vitrex are only good for the odd tiler tool in my experience.

Clip systems are used by people who can't tile. (Waiting for the backlash...)

Hi, The first thing to do is check that the paint is fully bonded to the plasterboard. Do this by applying a strip of gaffer tape overnight and then rip it off. If the paint comes off, then it means that there is weak bond between the board and paint, and the background is generally unsuitable...

Hope you get it sorted

Also, check for movement in the tray before you do anything. That tray will be on feet, and if you've had a leak, then more than likely, the wooden flooring will be damaged or rotten underneath and unstable. Personally, I'd take the tray out, look at the base floor it's sat on and repair if...

Hi there, I'm afraid it's game over for that installation which looks poorly done in the first place. I'm very surprised it lasted 14 years, so I think you have admit that it's had it's day, and look to re-tiling the area. I'd start fresh with some cement boards or let the plasterboard dry out...

Classic reclaimed tile issue. That's what you bought, because there was an issue. Sorry, but some things are just to good to be true. You've been had!

It's wrong. Did you do it yourself or the plumber/builder? The wooden batons spell big danger. It looks a total mess. Sorry. Rip it out and start again with a tiler from nearby you.

Ask one of the tilers on Tilers Forum to come round and rip it all out and start again. That's what any professional tiler will request before they start their own work. No tiler will finish a professional, nor an amateur job unless it's their own.

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My guess is that the SLC didn't lose it's required moisture content prior to tiling, and everybody just carried own piling down more stuff and trapping more moisture... Put a carpet over it,

Hi Jordan, What I would pick out, without being a dick, is that timber is not considered a suitable substate to tile onto at all any more by modern Building Regulations. This is due to poor lamination of plywood, and hence bonding stability due to movement and moisture issues.

No tiler would do that. Simple as. What you've employed is a cheap handyman I'm afraid.

Sorry to be the barer of bad news, but if grout has cracked in any situation, in any installation, then the reasons are this: Movement in the background substrate (maybe moisture or weight) causing lifting of the tile adhesive bed from the substrate, thus causing grout movement and cracking...

A gauging pole won't allow for differences in height between BOTH the floor and ceiling. It has to be set from one or another, as both the ceiling AND the floor could be out of level. Most likely. It's a builders guide that is close to 2 inches in/out. You will need to take a level line drawn...

Just a question about cutting down a tile to fit. Why would you take on a job with tiles that simply don't work with one another? I certainly wouldn't. That surprises me from some somebody like you who has been in the trade for so long. Do you cut down down tiles over a window when you've made a...