Search results

Hi All, after a short time off the tools my first job back and im having a head scratching moment:lol:. I was looking at a concrete flagstone hallway in a house approx 100 years or there abouts, the flags are uneven and far from level in anyway however quite stable. They are approx 1-1.5inches...

Priced up bathroom and cloakroom and am just wondering if im coming in about right. Ply floor, plasterboarded walls. 18m2 porcelain 14m2 ceramic 6m2 travertine 12 lm marble border all in inc mats 1200 Sound about right? Cheers

Called everywhere mate, going to try distibuters down south the mora so will keep my fingers crossed. cheers anyway

Distaster! 2 tiles short but b and q dont stock these anymore, anyone saw them anywhere else? Buy Studio Wall Tile Orange (W)400 x (L)100 x (T)8mm Pack Of 25, Shop Online Cheapest Price Painting and Decorating UK Cheers guys. Davie

Update -- customer no longer wants to pay for or have a decoupler installed. I've advised it would be of benefit. They have said they understand pros and cons but aren't willing to pay for it. Since its not mandatory on timber floors unlike screeds I'm going to continue with job.

Ok, after removal of skirting, facings and stops leave a 10mm gap around perimeter and at door posts and end panels in kitchen leave a 2-3mm gap and fill with Silicon. Is that correct?

Red 10mm expansion Alan could you clarify what you mean by "set out so that I had a joint across the door ways" do you mean an expansion joint or just tile joint? Would you be better to leave a 10mm gap around door post also and Silicon finish? Cheers

I will leave 10mm around perimeter for sure but wasnt sure if a strip or cold joint was required. facings will be off but any recommendations how to finish around door posts or itchen cabnets?

Thanks for replies, plans not the best but hopefully help, sub is ply with dural ci+ membrane. Wet UFH skirtings will be off 43m2 total but unsure of individual room sizes if i was to guess id say kitchen 16m2,hall 15m2, dining 12m2.

Im in need of some advice as this will be my largest job. Its 45m2 of travertine in opus lay over 3 rooms and am looking for the best method of inserting expansion joints as I tae it a floor that size will require them wheither it be an expansion joint which will be straight and break up pattern...

So John from that can I take it you also agree?:thumbsup: "If decoupler is to be used in an istallation theres no need for a cement board "

Haha sorry John, I was basically asking if anyone would agree with me that in a situation where a floor had to be strenghtened therefore ply'd wheither there was a need to overboard with a cement product if a decoupler was being used? Floor setup is 22mm chipboard screwd to joists, 15mm wbp...

Hi All, I know the backerboard/ply disscusion has been had to death but after chatting to mapei has got me thinking:yikes:. So some mapei products such as keraquick with or without latex are used to bed down backerboards to a ply or chipboard sub along with mechanical fixings, so it obviously...

I agree, as I see it the main issues are she wants a very soft tile layed so I want the floor to be solid to avoid cracking etc and the use of wet ufh. If it was electric ufh then the floor could be strengthened as you suggested and would be a able to remove chipboard altogether and fix ply to...

Mike, yeah this was my original plan and think it would make the difference needed but the floor will have wet ufh therfore strenghthening the joists by adding noggins unfortunatly isnt possible due to the pipes,insulation and screed. So was going to reinstall chipboard since its t&g then fix...

Have job soon and its throwing up problems, issue im having now is floor had movement so will have to overboard with 18mm wbp before installing decoupler as tile to be layed is travertine BUT now with what id consider is belt and braces the upvc front and back door wouldnt be able to open after...

I cant beleive what ive been reading with regards to this floor from start to finish, Ive only been tiling 4 years and not done alot of natural work and am always learning from this site but id also say its a must for UFH and a natural tile to use a decoupler membrane and also correct adhesive...

Re: *2011 Training* - July to December...all the available Ceramic Product Training : Im interested in a Scottish Training day! :hurray:

Not that im aware of. Ive just finished stripping it all down and its started working again, noticed the block connectors on the base of the saw have rust on the screws so not sure if theres a loose connection somewhere or wheither the motors on its way out.

Began kitchen job today, get everything set up an try to turn on the saw and nothing! :yikes: Fuse is good, blade spins freely when I move it with my hand ,perhaps to easly. Any past experience of this problem? Saw worked fine last week when it was used.