Bathroom

[ROSSP]

I am a novice renewing a bathroom. I am researching to get the best tiling advice before starting.

FLOOR – This is a concrete base. Intend to use 300x300x9mm Beige Glazed Ceramic tiles with UFH. UFH to warm the tiles rather than main source of heating as there is a radiator in the room. I want to raise floor level as little as possible so intend to use ‘Thermacoat’ instead of insulation boards. Can thermacoat be used as the floor primer or is another primer required?
I assume self levelling compound is required?
I assume that rapid setting flexible tile adhesive is required?
Do I need an expansion joint around the perimeter (floor is 2.8m x 2.4m)?
Do I need ‘superflex’ grout?
What is the optimum grout width?
If I use ivory grout will this show up the dirt?

WALL - Using 360x275x9mm glazed ceramic tiles. The walls are now down to the plaster. We are installing a 900 Quadrant shower. The intention is to use WBP ply on one wall of shower to cover over pipework. The other wall will be tiled directly onto plaster. What is the best type of primer to use – preferably the same for ply and plaster?
What is best tile adhesive to use?
What is optimum grout width for walls?

Do I need to use same make of tile adhesive and grout?
Are the trade products any good or is it best to stick to well know brands like BAL or Mapei?

Any other advice welcomed.

 

[Scott]

The tile adhesive doesnt have to be rapid set it just depends on how soon you want to be able to walk on it or grout it. If its conctrete floor then you can use standard grout too. There should be a small gap around the edge which either the skirting board or wall tile will cover. As for grout colour, uyes it will show the dirt but you can seal it to help with that. The UFH is best laid with self levelling compound over the top (SLC) but it can be encapsulated in the adhesive but it must be completely covered to prevent it burning out. ITs also a bit of a risk as you can damage it with the trowel when tiling over it. It really depends on how confindent oyu are in laying SLC as its not just a case of mix and pour.

Try and avoid the ply if you can. Can you use a cement backer board instead? or overboard the ply with them or even tanked plasterboard? The primer of choice will depend on the adhesive you use. Most manufactureres only warranty with their own primer. The grout and adhesive compnaies can be mixed though. Id stick to Mapei if you can as they are genreally all round good products, Bal are too but tend to be more expensive that Mapei.

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

I agree with Scott, I think he has covered every angle

 

[beanz]

All i'd add to that is just check that your adhesive is suitable for UFH. Personally i'd use 2mm grout lines on wall and floor, but it's down to your own personal taste really.

 

[ROSSP]

Further to my initial post and reply by Scottley.

I have already bought the WBP ply but the builders merchant said they are willing to exchange it for Hardie Backer Board, which is what I now intend to do. Therefore I will have one shower wall backed by HBB and the other wall will be tiled straight onto the plaster. Ideally, I do not want to put HBB on this wall as the shower enclosure will then be too close to the sink. Is there any need for me to get one of these ‘shower waterproofing/tanking kits’?

I will be using self levelling compound around the UFH cables. Can the tile adhesive go straight onto this or is a primer needed?

 

[Scott]

I prime the self levelling and i would advise tanking if you budget will run to it. You can get a mapei shower kit from Tile Giant.i use this one

Mapei Shower Waterproofing Kit

 

[ROSSP]

Scottley - thanks for the prompt reply.
Is the shower kit still advisable if I put backer boards on both shower walls?

 

[Scott]

If it was mine then no i wouldnt tank them, scrim tape the joints and skim over them with your adhesive. However the boards are not impervious to water. They will still let water through them but wont break down like other materials can. That said, IMO it will take a lot of water for it to pass through them.

 

[beanz]

Ross, how heavily is the shower used? If it's just a couple of showers a day i wouldn't bother. Just make sure the grouting is done well, and there are no little holes in it. The amount of times i've seen grout with the air bubbles just left amazes me, as the water will be sucked in at an alarming rate.

 

[ROSSP]

Beanz and Scottley - thanks for your replies.
The shower will be used a couple of times a day. At the moment one shower wall will have Hardie Backer Boards to cover the pipework. The other wall will be tiled straight onto the plaster. I discussed this with the guy who is doing the work and he said don't bother with a waterproofing kit. So I am relieved to hear Beanz comments.

 

[Scott]

Id have tanked the plastered wall as this will absorb moisture if it get through the grout.

 

[ROSSP]

Scottley,
Decided to tank the plastered wall. Better safe than sorry!

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Wise decision imo