'Contaminated' chipboard

[Stuartpaul]

During the current festivities my darling wife managed to spill hot cooking oil over the chipboard floor. This was going to be tiled in the near future but I'm now concerned that this oil will now in effect act as a release agent for any adhesive.

Is this the case or will it be OK to tile? I dread the prospect of trying to lift glued and screwed T&G but I'd rather do that than have a failure reasonably early on!

Could I use a 'solvent' wash (white spirit?) in an attempt to dilute/wash away?

Any suggestions welcome.

Thanks

Stuart

 

[dave l and l]

think you should do some research first. best thing to do would be sort out any deflection issues than overboard with hardie backer board glued and screwed down
i would not tile direct to chip board anyway

 

[Spud]

It isn't the best surface to tile on regardless of spills my advice would be over board with no more ply of hardibacker

 

[Stuartpaul]

I'm not going to tile straight onto the chipboard. I'll be using membrane so will still be needing to use adhesive on to the chipboard.

 

[Martyn Leeds]

If it was your plan to tile straight onto the Chipboard, then a little spill of oil would have been the least of your worries.

I think the Wife has done you a favour.

It'll only take an hour or so to research the preparation, or less time to post the job for a local 'Tiler'

 

[dave l and l]

how much oil is on the t and g. hardie might still be the best course of action

 

[Stuartpaul]

Hard to give an actual quantity. Spread over about half a square metre I guess. A quick test with white spirit seems to remove some of it but not sure if I should go for replacement or not.

 

[pete f]

yep as above 6mm hardie glued and screwed 150 mm centres

 

[Stuartpaul]

With respect. I'm not going to go to the additional expense of hardi or no more ply when I already have the dural. I'm asking if I need to remove the 'contaminated' boards before fixing it down or not.

 

[Spud]

yes remove all the chip boards and replace with 25mm plywood

 

[Rookery]

Why are you planning to use Dural/Durabase matting?

 

[Mr Tiler]

Why are you planning to use Dural/Durabase matting?

I was thinking that too rookery. am I rite in thinking it is only needed on ufh and stone to timber?

 

[Mr Tiler]

http://www.tilersforums.com/tiling-forum/17014-when-use-ditra-matting.html ...might help the discussion.

 

[Rookery]

I was thinking that too rookery. am I rite in thinking it is only needed on ufh and stone to timber?

I wouldnt say 'only' needed but I would certainly use it over UFH/under stone. It has other properties too, ie tiling sooner onto fresh screeds & waterproofing.
Many people wrongly assume its a substitute for good preparation. It will not stop cracking of grout and tiles if the timber floor has too much movement in it.

 

[Mr Tiler]

yeh just been reading up on that post above mate.. it deffinately an interesting material. cheers

 

[Martyn Leeds]

In this case its to avoid adding additional 6mm height (as per previous threads)

But as we're not that fussed on the advice re preparation, I don't get the additional fuss re a bit of spillage. My guess would be that the Chipboard would be absorbing whatever was spilt, in the same way the water from the adhesive that you'll be using as well.

The answer that you're looking for is: No. It won't effect it. Crack-on....

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Just my take on this Chipboard is not and never will be a suitable substrate to lay tiles onto, decoupling membrane will do nothing to change this, I would overboard with Hardie backer glued and screwed as above.

Who suggested Ditra, Dural?

 

[dave l and l]

the op mentioned de coupling
if you are worried about chipboard and wont listen to advice on hardie, lift all the chip board and replace with ply, min 18 mm, maybe add in some extra dwangs then fill your boots with the dural

 

[afright]

If you do not want the additional expense now,you will more than likely have it in the future.

 

[Bubblecraft]

As mentioned above, oil on the chipboard would be the least of your worries. Correct method would be to overlay with a 6mm hardie, glued & screwed. If height is an issue, take out your chipboard & replace with a min of 18mm WBP ply with additional dwangs/noggins.

If you REALLY don't want to go down this route, use a 2 part flexible adhesive (cement based adhesive with a latex compound) to give you the highest flexibility possible. It will adhere to your chipboard and your oil stained area but I cannot guarantee it will not fail. You will have a better adhesion to P5 chipboard flooring (green in colour) as opposed to P4 flooring (brown in colour) as expansion & contraction will be less than standard chipboard but it STILL has movement. Again, your tiles will stick to the chipboard floor but 9 times out of 10, your grout lines & tiles will crack. More so as it is in a high humidity area from cooking, washing machines, tumble dryers & sinks.

This may be a cheaper method right now but I can assure you, replacing this floor after using 2 part adhesive is not a job for the faint hearted & will be a costly fix.

P.S. Dural will not solve your problem. Good luck with whatever you decide to do

 

[Stuartpaul]

I've bitten the bullet and will be overboarding with no more ply and then use fleible adhesive and grout.

Anyone want 18 metres of dural?!