Discuss Decoupling or not in the Australia Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

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Perfect Tiling

Good morning. I am doing a job next week that I need a bit of advice on as I've never come across it before. Customer has a floor with piped water ufh covered with 30mm of plywood and tiles...as expected the floor hardly heats as ply inulates the ufh. The ply is coming up to be replaced with 22mm hardifloor boards. Tiles are possibly travertine. I usually use a decoupling mat under stone especially with ufh (usually within a screed) but hardiebacker say its not necessary and BAL aren't sure. Anyone come across this before. On similar note...if putting down stone on 10mm insulation boards with electric ufh would you use a decoupling mat...even if floors only around 6 sq mtrs. Ta.
 
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widler

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Why would you use ditra if there was no underfloor heating john ?
Surely in all your considerable years :) you have laid stone with no ditra or such like?
What about a outside patio or driveway,laid on a slab ,open to much more temperature difference than interior and I've never seen ditra or wot else .

Disclaimer- in no way is this a bitchy comment to anyone,I AM ASKING A QUESTION ;)
 

Ajax123

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Thanks for the replies. Its not normal hardiebacker but hardie floor which is designed to allow good thermal dissipation from wet ufh with no lateral movement...so they say. Customer has now got tiles and they are 333 x 333 porcelain rather than travertine. Still querying the decoupling belt and braces approach...I prefer to do jobs just the once!!!!

From a purely standards point of view uncoupling is only required for natural stone on heated screed. It can of course be useful on screeds which have become unsound e.g. Cracked sand cement etc.... Porcelain would not normally require uncoupling.

The level of thermal dissipation... Or diffusivity to use the tech term... Depends on a number of factors including primarily flow temperatures and intimacy of contact with the final surface.
 
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