Discuss Extension Floor with mixture of surfaces and half UFH - advice sought in the Australia Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

G

gobby

Hi all. Went to view a job last night, larger than I usually get these days. Rear of house just extended and total area 6mx6m approx 36m2 floor area to be fitted with Devon Bone 400x600's from Topps Tiles that should test out a Sigma3C2M I bought a few months ago (I can supply ady and grout, SLC etc if I want). New bit has a wet UFH heating system installed approx 6mx3m and screeded about month ago, looking at edge by french doors I'd say to 40mm depth. One half of old bit has parquet diner floor set in bitumen to uplift and infill. Other old side is prev kitchen and a new bit and floor has quarries and levelling compounds where vinyl been overlaid on previously plus a little bit new floor lashed in. Walls pulled out in places so patching and levelling needed and generally think a good 3-4mm SLC applied throughout would be best. I assume flood fill the 24mm deep parquet area with SLC would be okay or is there a cheaper/better way? I've used Mira X Plan SLC to good effect with elec UFH to a depth of 12mm in a bathroom and being a mix of heated unheated here I was thinking of using it again? Concerns are expansion between old and new and whether I should be trying to introduce expansion gap to cater for it or if flexi ady and grout is enough, was thinking Mapei Keraflex but not sure it'll do 600x400's so maybe an Ardex like X7W, don't think I need rapid. Not done a whole floor half heated half not in ceramics anyway, only done it in thick slate in kitchen come conservatory which went okay. Any constructive questions, comments or suggestions on any aspects or products to use appreciated. I've also got the shower walls and kitchen splashbacks to quote on, shower room is 100x200'sand all over (1mx3mx2..4m) so time consuming and probably warrant a smaller tile cutter! Thanks Mark
 
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G

gobby

Re: Extension Floor with mixture of surfaces and half UFH - advice sou

Would anyone know if a decoupling system would be applicable here or would these tiles supposedly described as porcelain by Topps, be okay without? I've not used one before. The slab will need commissioning first and this itself could show up any screed weaknesses. Any help is appreciated and anyone knowledgeable in screeds might have a take on it too? Thanks, Mark
 
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