floor half wood

[monkey68]

going to tile kitchen floor half wood half concrete, they also want 6mm thermal boards for the underfloor heating, do you think there will be much movement between the two different substrates, tiles are all kinds of different sizes so cant silicon the meeting floors as not one straight lines, how would you do it?????????:mad2:

 

[bugs183]

There was thread about this the other week and it wasn't it wasn't a simple answer.
This is how i would do it, but you may get a different answer off someone else. I've done a number of these and been very confident with the results, bearing in mind there are some clever people on here and if they come up with a better solution, i'll use it.
Firstly which thermal boards are they??? If they are the rubbishy foam/polystyrene type one that crumble, then i really woludn't use them, they compress after time, use a cement board like marmox, much better.
Obviously the wooden musn't flex or bounce, if it does then again insist it's sorted.
Ideally you would want a new plywood base to tile on the for the wooden floor, another thing to think about.
I prime both substrates with SBR then using a 10mm notched trowel i trowel a flexible standard (or fast set) adhesive onto the floor. I've been using Mapei Keraflex Maxi lately and it's bloomin lovely, and boy it goes hard!!!
Then press the boards into this. Think about the tile size and how the boards will be placed, some tiles are 600mm as are the boards, don't set out the tiles in the same way as the boards!
After pressing these down, screw the boards down onto the wooden area using the plastic collars recommended, making sure you only drill into the boards and not the ply, i think someone mentioned 15 screws per Marmox board onto wood.
Do all the area and leave to dry.
After the underfloor heating has gone down and levelled in some cases especially stone then i'd use Ditra matting onto of the levelling compound and then tile onto this.

 

[monkey68]

thanks bugs

 

[monkey68]

There was thread about this the other week and it wasn't it wasn't a simple answer.
This is how i would do it, but you may get a different answer off someone else. I've done a number of these and been very confident with the results, bearing in mind there are some clever people on here and if they come up with a better solution, i'll use it.
Firstly which thermal boards are they??? If they are the rubbishy foam/polystyrene type one that crumble, then i really woludn't use them, they compress after time, use a cement board like marmox, much better.
Obviously the wooden musn't flex or bounce, if it does then again insist it's sorted.
Ideally you would want a new plywood base to tile on the for the wooden floor, another thing to think about.
I prime both substrates with SBR then using a 10mm notched trowel i trowel a flexible standard (or fast set) adhesive onto the floor. I've been using Mapei Keraflex Maxi lately and it's bloomin lovely, and boy it goes hard!!!
Then press the boards into this. Think about the tile size and how the boards will be placed, some tiles are 600mm as are the boards, don't set out the tiles in the same way as the boards!
After pressing these down, screw the boards down onto the wooden area using the plastic collars recommended, making sure you only drill into the boards and not the ply, i think someone mentioned 15 screws per Marmox board onto wood.
Do all the area and leave to dry.
After the underfloor heating has gone down and levelled in some cases especially stone then i'd use Ditra matting onto of the levelling compound and then tile onto this.

reading this again im not sure why i need to screw only the boards and not the ply or have i miss read it? also do i use the matting all over the floor as its 15m2 and only 5m2 is wood floor i was thinking just matingt 400mm each side of the different substrates where they meet

 

[bugs183]

I don't really get what your asking, but obviously screw the new ply to the timbers, then after you've squidged the thermal boards down onto the adhesive screw these down onto the ply, no need to drill the thermal boards on the concrete side.
Ideally you'd put thermal boards over the whole area so that the heating is the same throughout the floor, or did you mean ditra mat?
There's two cases for Ditra here:
1. Instead of thermal board ditra the wooden area and 400mm over onto the concrete, then lay ufh and level, but you'd have temperature warmup differences.
2. use the boards, ufh heat, level, then ditra the whole floor, this would stop any lateral movement of the under floor heating under the tiles. It may be considered over kill, but you wouldn't get any problems.

 

[monkey68]

I don't really get what your asking, but obviously screw the new ply to the timbers, then after you've squidged the thermal boards down onto the adhesive screw these down onto the ply, no need to drill the thermal boards on the concrete side.
Ideally you'd put thermal boards over the whole area so that the heating is the same throughout the floor, or did you mean ditra mat?
There's two cases for Ditra here:
1. Instead of thermal board ditra the wooden area and 400mm over onto the concrete, then lay ufh and level, but you'd have temperature warmup differences.
2. use the boards, ufh heat, level, then ditra the whole floor, this would stop any lateral movement of the under floor heating under the tiles. It may be considered over kill, but you wouldn't get any problems.

ok thanks again