Green screed

[Ttt1601]

Hello ladies and gents

Asking for a bit of advise from those of you with a bit more experience with green screeds. Floor went down a week ago, was going to tile with bal green screed, put a level on the floor earlier today and ohh dear, I've seen smaller lumps and bumps on a page three girl.

Its only a 2m x 2m bathroom floor, The builder has got me some screed master latex, moister resistant stuff, supposedly fine for green screed.


My question is after the latex do I still need to use the bal green screed or can i just use normal rapid set flex? Cheers in advance for the help

 

[hmtiling]

I would think you'll still need the green screed addy

 

[J Sid]

I would use Ditra uncoupling membrane myself, stuck with normal cement based adhesive rather than the green screed route.

 

[Ttt1601]

I've already bought the green screed so happy to use it or a uncoupling membrane, builder will be charged accordingly because it's his appauling screed that's caused to issue just never had this before, so am a bit nervy

 

[Dumbo]

Speak to bal technical and screed master technical

 

[Ttt1601]

Will do mate, was just seeing seeing what the wise soils on here thought too

 

[Ttt1601]

*souls

 

[LM]

I use at least 1 pallet of Green Screed sometimes double it every 3/4 weeks and so have had loads of experience with it. Just how badly out is the floor? There's a 40% tolerance built into that adhesive for idiots who want to go too deep for BAL to stand over it.
What type of tiles are you using for a start?
For a 4mtr floor I'd be surprised if you couldn't build them up and allow an extra day to dry due to the climate before grouting.
BAL will not want you crossing brands, you may be advised to use Ardex NA as a leveller instead.

 

[Ttt1601]

I know it's only a tiny floor but if you put a 6ft level on it, only touches in a couple of spots with a 6/7mm hollows or highs I can't actually tell as none of it is flat enough to figure a level from, then there is a sort ramp up to the door to try and bring it level to the next room of about 7/8mm. It's 600 x 300 porc going on it. Have had a hell of alot of trouble with the walls too, wish I had walked away yesterday now. I know bal won't want cross branding but o am very tight on time, need to get it done by Friday really

 

[Ttt1601]

600 x 300 brick bonded

 

[LM]

Could you not dry fit the floor and then start sticking down with the highest tile first, place a piece of cardboard under a tile at the doorway and using a level to ensure it's all on a flat plane and tile back out towards the door. 6-7 mm dips on a floor of that size aren't really a big deal with 600x300 porc. You could then grout it on Thursday.

 

[Ttt1601]

Yea i could, it's just alot of faffing about, the walls have been boarded out horribly, am sick of it, am just trying to make it easy on myself, have only been there 2 days and am sick of it now, can I not latex then use the bal green screed then?

 

[Ttt1601]

Looks like I will have to do it the way you suggested @LEE MAC, after a chat with the technical dept the latex is unsuitable for a green screed. Cheers for the comments lads

 

[LM]

Looks like I will have to do it the way you suggested @LEE MAC, after a chat with the technical dept the latex is unsuitable for a green screed. Cheers for the comments lads

With it only being 4mts at most it should only take a couple of hours extra, but your a day ahead in regards to waiting on laytex drying.

 

[Ttt1601]

Yea indeed mate, was just hoping to make life easy as I have had such problems with walls being awful as well, but will be charging for all the extra hassle so all's well that ends well.

This will be first and last job for this "builder" I think lol