grinding porcelain

[Pencil]

Hi all,

I have a client who wants to have 3 large curved steps in polished porcelain but wants the front edge exposed .

So i made a order for a new Fein WSG 14-70 ET on there recommendation but i cant help but feel its not gonna be sufficient and am looking to see what you guys think on wether or not i should go with the dry polisher or spend a little more and get a wet machine if so what would you recommend.

Is a dry machine going be able to sand it enough for me to work to a template?
I have tried to steer the client away from having the edge exposed for obvious reasons but no joy

Thanks in advance

 

[Concrete guy]

What finish are you trying to create? A half bull nose/pencil edge or square polished?

I assume we're talking about a tile circa 8mm to 10mm in thickness?

 

[Peter]

Done similar myself recently. Grinded out template then used bosch GTR30 to square the edges. Arrissed edge done with diamond polishing. Looked pretty factory at the finished result. Can't attach pictures on my phone but will put some pictures up tomorrow.

 

[Pencil]

What finish are you trying to create? A half bull nose/pencil edge or square polished?

I assume we're talking about a tile circa 8mm to 10mm in thickness?

They are 10mm thickness and its only a square edge finish , you think i would need to have to purchase a GTR30 as well then to get the initial edge ?
Then polish it up with the fein with a flexible pad and paper ?

I was planning on getting it as close to a final shape with just nippers and wetcuts then using the fein to sand / polish it up but im assuming now thats not going to be enough to do the job.

 

[Concrete guy]

Your best bet is buying a dished blade that will cut curves, then cut as close to your finished line as possible.

Then a hard backer pad with Silicon carbide pads should get you the finish you need. You don't really want a flexible pad for external curves.

An easier method may actually be to mark them up, drop them into a stonemason or monumental mason and get them to cut/polish them for you.

 

[Pencil]

Your best bet is buying a dished blade that will cut curves, then cut as close to your finished line as possible.

Then a hard backer pad with Silicon carbide pads should get you the finish you need. You don't really want a flexible pad for external curves.

An easier method may actually be to mark them up, drop them into a stonemason or monumental mason and get them to cut/polish them for you.

Ok the dish blade i can use on my wetcutter np but would i need a wet polishes/grinder for the silicone pads or is the WSG 14-70 ET (dry) sufficent with the correct pads etc?
I am worried about chipping and having to replace many tiles from chipping.

 

[Concrete guy]

Dry would be fine with Hermes pads. I see no advantage of investing in wet polishing equipment or diamond pads for this job.

The dish blade would be better used on a grinder, it will give you more control of the curve.

 

[Peter]

Here's pictures:

Cut as close to the template as possible with a grinder blade held as flat as possible, then GTR30 finished any indiscrepencies. Resin pads sorted out the sides, although wasn't full bodied porc so could only polish the top glaze.

 

[Pencil]

Thanks guys for all your advice and sorry for taking so long to reply.

Ive also posted some images of the final finish pretty chuffed tbh
There is one more thing mind i found that the bottom of the tile would chip out when cutting with the curved blade, i was laying tile on tile for all my cutting but could not seem to get a complete clean cut in some places.
It was not massivley noticeable but still i could see them
Any other ides on stopping this from happening ?

Anyway thanks again was a great help and shame my phone camera was so poor for the before photos.

 

[charlie1]

Method i used was:
1, Dry lay tiles
2, Tape area and mark line (use template or whatever)
3, Make one continuis pass using angle grinder and good blade (about 1mm deep)
4, Remove each tile then make several passes till tile is cut
5, Dress edge and set.
6, Once all tiles are set, give another final dressing using small diamond hand pad.

No need for any fancy tools, just a grinder and a diamond pad and you can achive a factory finish.

 

[Concrete guy]

Nice tips Charlie.

Wet cutting will also reduce the likelyhood of chipping but it's not always practical.

 

[afright]

Thanks guys for all your advice and sorry for taking so long to reply.

Ive also posted some images of the final finish pretty chuffed tbh
There is one more thing mind i found that the bottom of the tile would chip out when cutting with the curved blade, i was laying tile on tile for all my cutting but could not seem to get a complete clean cut in some places.
It was not massivley noticeable but still i could see them
Any other ides on stopping this from happening ?

Anyway thanks again was a great help and shame my phone camera was so poor for the before photos.
View attachment 49567 View attachment 49568 View attachment 49569

Just one thing notice in your second photo is that a horrible bag of Toppfix ? evil stuff,best place for that is in the bin. :bigcry:Apart from that nice job