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cornish_crofter

Just to ADD to the woes I'm having with this new slab in the wetroom, I ask the shop what the coverage is per bag of Greenscreed

5m squared, came the reply.

Good, I thought. I'll need a shedload to do the former, then the rest can do the 2.5m squared or so to stick down the ditra matting.

So, picked up the Greenscreed along with a load of other bits. Got it out of the van later yesterday in case the temp drops too much.

Looked on the back. Coverage is 2.8m squared per bag.

Jeees I am annoyed. Not only am I likely to need at least one other bag, but I now have to order it in - again! I'm just hoping that there'll be enough to do the former :yikes: It's a 1200 x 1200 Tilux former but it has been trimmed down to app 1200 x 1050 (average dimension.

I'm not going to mention the outlet. Sufice to say this is the first time they've given me a bum steer.

So that's another £50 this job is going to cost me (which I can't ask the customer for - Grrrrr) and another trip to to go and get it. I'm actually in danger of making a loss on the materials for this job. It's a good thing that I seem to have got the labour about right.
 
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cornish_crofter

hi cornish why cant you ask for the material extra money?

Because I've effectively quoted for the job. I cocked up by not fully appreciating that the new concrete can't be overlaid with tiles or the former using normal flexable rapid set for 7 weeks, whereas BAL Greenscreed at twice the price can be used after a week. So that is nearly all my markup on materials gone. It's the first time I've had to lay tiles on a new slab.

Tomorrow I'll be having a chat with the supplier over this.
 
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cornish_crofter

That coverage will be based on a tipped towel that you normally use with fast flex..

You will get much more coverage with the matting and the former..:)

Thanks Dave, I've got to put some on both mating surfaces when I adhere the former in position. How long do you think it will take for the greenscreed to go off? The BAL fastfex I used last time went rock hard within an hour. I remember the former was like concrete after then! I suspect this will take longer.
 
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cornish_crofter

One other question on the adhesive Dave, when I used the BAL fastflex I backfilled the channel for the drain with the same adhesive as I was gluing the former down with, and at the same time. Would doing this with the Greenscreed be OK, The channel probably has about an inch either side. I would probably chuck some quick setting mortar underneath the drain to go off before I put the former down. At the moment the channel is about 5 inches deep.

I laid the channel this deep because I had no data on the former when I laid the slab. Ideally I would have liked to have the former in my hands before I laid the concrete, but alas it wasn't to be. The last job I did I actually had the former. I had cut it to size and positioned it over the floor area several times marking everything out. That was dead easy.
 
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cornish_crofter

This is one of those jobs where I will just have to grin and bear it. I've done a few odd jobs for them before. My wife works for them. They are very nice people but in hindsight I was probably too keen to do a wet room.

They wanted either a wetroom or the shower tray etc reinstalled. The wetroom idea made more sence but at a higher price. This is because the rear wall of the room is completely out of square. In a room 4 feet wide and 8 ft long one side is 1 foot longer than the other. The shower area is at the back with the out of square wall, so as you can imagine it lends itself to a wetroom. The customer suffers from a permanent bad back so he needs all the space he can get in the shower.

The installation that was ripped out used a 900 by 900 tray shoved up against the acute (less than 90°) corner with ply stretching into the corners where the tray wouldn't fit to try and achieve a splashproof area. It was hopeless. The job was done about 5 years ago and completely ruined the floor and joists etc, and leaked through to another room, with a 4 inch block wall in between! I have never seen tanallised wood rot at all before now.
 
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cornish_crofter

im happy to quote on labour but always estimate on materials

Good move. My quote exluded tiles. I said that I could get tiles for them but they would be extra. The reason for this is that tiles can vary in price so much. I managed to find some porcelain for a good price to them (and me), and they are having 10 x 8 white on the walls.

To be fair we've started out with a ballpark, so the quote isn't rigurously fixed, but I should have forseen the new concrete slab problem and I didn't. I can't really expect the customer to pay for my mistakes.
 
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cornish_crofter

we all get jobs like this from time to time i bet,learning curve eh hope it turns out good for you crofter

Thanks, once I get the former down I'll be on the home straight. Apart from tiling the former itself where I'm having to cut the tiles for the fall I can't see it being too complicated.

It's a Tilux former, and although the last one did give me problems as I tried to rush it, I salvaged the situation and set about the job the following day. In the end it worked great.

I'm just a little aprehensive as I'm going onto straight onto the concrete. Last time, partly because I had messed it up on the first attempt, I eventually laid it onto a level surface of dried fastflex, which actually worked really well.
 
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cornish_crofter

Got the former down this afternoon. I was going to leave it until tomorrow but at 4 pm I though 'Sod it, I'll do it now' It took me about an hour to lay it and that was only the 2nd I've ever done. The first was 2 years ago.

The greenscreed mixed up beautifully. I applied it to the base and the former using a 10mm curved notched trowel and then placed the former down. All that preparation for the former (drain position etc) really paid off! I had even knocked off a few high spots in the concrete that I missed when I put it down:oops:

That former is dead level! Last time I was slightly out and made up the heigh difference with tile adhesive when I laid the tiles.

As for the coverage. I used most of one bag. Mind you that did both the former and the sub base (both surfaces) - each of which are about 1.2m square. So I reckon BAL have got it about right with the 2.8m squared. I've still got a bit left in that bag plus the other bag to do the ditra on the rest of the floor.

I am quite chuffed it went well. A reasonable amount of thought and preparation went into this.

I've got an electric radiator in there to keep the temperature up overnight although the towel rail is working well. I don't want it to drop below 5°C in there tonight!

Top tip when fitting the Tilux former - leave about 15 to 20mm around the former. Don't make it a tight fit to the walls/screed. This will give you room to twist it into position to help level/align it. This gap can be backfilled with screed or tile adhesive later.

Top tip #2 - fold the membrane over and tape it to the top of the tray. That saves you fighting with it whilst laying it.
 
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