Hardie Backer - fixing and cutting

[DIYMARK]

What is the best way to cut 12mm Hardie Backer? Can I use Plaster Board screws?

 

[Ian]

Plasterboard screws won't cut hardiebacker use a grinder and make sure you are wearing a dust mask and goggles, do it in a well ventilated area. As for the screws, use the proper hardie screws or turbo golds from screwfix.

 

[DIYMARK]

Will a Jig Saw cut it?

 

[Ian]

Will a Jig Saw cut it?

Probably, I doubt the blade would last very long though, a wood blade certainly wouldn't.

 

[CJ]

You can get grit edged jiggy blades......they work, but don't last long. Steer clear of the hardi screws.....orrible things.

 

[Sean Kelly]

Don't really use 12mm Hardi, but do use 6mm for floors. Depending on the size of cut, then score and snap using a Hardiebacker knife (carbide tip). Hardie screws are a rip off, I use Toolstation > Screws & Fixings > Reisser Screws > Reisser Cutter Screw

An impact driver makes a massive difference when screwing into Hardie.

 

[White Room]

I use one of these to cut Hardie

 

[Ian]

I use one of these to cut Hardie

I find them good on the 6mm but, the 12mm really need a grinder.

 

[DIYMARK]

That makes holes tricky. I have to cut to fit a Geberit Wall Frame so I guess a will have to just cut a V shape around them? I have now cut out the plaster board on this as there was a very slight movement around the holes where there is no fixing to the frame.

 

[Sean Kelly]

I don't understand........where are you putting the 12mm Hardie? As far as I can see there is no need for 12mm hardie in the above picture.

 

[DIYMARK]

I don't understand........where are you putting the 12mm Hardie? As far as I can see there is no need for 12mm hardie in the above picture.

There was a very small amount of movement on the plaster board around the waste so I decided to cut the middle section out where the frame is and use the Hardie to stiffen it.

 

[beanz]

There was a very small amount of movement on the plaster board around the waste so I decided to cut the middle section out where the frame is and use the Hardie to stiffen it.

If that's the only place there's movement, I'd leave it. Once you bolt the pan on, there will be no movement there mate.

 

[DIYMARK]

If that's the only place there's movement, I'd leave it. Once you bolt the pan on, there will be no movement there mate.

I thought as there was some movement, when the pan is tightened the plaster board may have moved a touch and cracked the tiles. Plus my plumber said he had never seen one before that wasnt done with a layer of ply. As I have never done one before I thought I had better do a belt and braces. Would have been very disappointing to crack the tiles!

 

[beanz]

I thought as there was some movement, when the pan is tightened the plaster board may have moved a touch and cracked the tiles. Plus my plumber said he had never seen one before that wasnt done with a layer of ply. As I have never done one before I thought I had better do a belt and braces. Would have been very disappointing to crack the tiles!

I guess that depends on your definition of a very small amount of movement... Once you've added the adhesive and tile, there will probably be no movement, but only you can really make that call, as only you now how much movement there is.
What tiles are you fitting?

 

[Mr Tiler]

Probably, I doubt the blade would last very long though, a wood blade certainly wouldn't.

really bri? I have used a standard Stanley blade on the 6mm and it cut just like plasterboard is the 12mm that much tougher then?