Help needed with Bathroom Tiling

Discuss Help needed with Bathroom Tiling in the Bathroom Tiling Advice area at TilersForums.com.

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chris316

Hi

This is my first post on here, so please be gentle, and bear with me.

I am for tiling my bathroom, walls and floor. And I have a few questions which I would be very greatful if someone could answer, or give me some advice.
My bathroom has plastered walls which had been painted with emulsion paint. Originally I was going to just key the walls and tile over. But when I keyed the walls the paint came away in places so I decided to remove the paint from all the walls, right back to the plaster.
My questions are:

1. After removing the paint from the walls you can still see where the
walls have been keyed/scored right back to the blockwork/undercoat
plaster. Can I tile the bare plaster walls with the key marks, or will the
key marks have to be filled up prior to tiling?

2. Do the plaster walls still need to be keyed/scored now that the paint has been removed?

3. When removing the emulsion paint and keying the walls there are small
areas of the wall where the finish plaster was very thin and has come
away. What would be the best filler to use to patch the
walls up, or would I need to re-skim the walls?

4. Do I need to prime the plaster walls prior to tiling. If so what would be
the best primer to use?

5. I have also had to re-plaster a bit of the wall where I installed a new
shower. Can I tile on top of this new strip of plaster straight away?
or do I need to leave it to dry properly, and if so how long do I need
to leave it?

6. Finally, I also plan on fitting a new plywood floor, does this need to be
primed and if so, again what would be the best primer to use?

Sorry if my questions are a bit long winded.

Thanks
Chris
 
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C

chris316

Hi

Thanks for all your replies so far.

faithhealer - With the finish plaster coming away and exposing the bare blockwork, undercoat plaster, I was a bit worried about the tile adhesive not setting right at these places as i was told by someone not to tile directly onto undercoat plaster. Just so that I know for the future, if I have bare plaster walls, do they have to be keyed/scored before tiling or is it only painted walls which need keyed/scored?

Diamondtiling - I will get back to you later regarding what adhesives I will be using. I don't know exactly, because when I bought the tiles from the tile shop, they gave me all the adhesives, grout etc that they said that I would need.

Scottley - There is some large areas where I had to replaster. I tracked the wall to install a new pipe and cable to a new electric shower this will need to be plastered. Also when I removed the couple of old tiles at the window, half the window sill came away, and the other half I had to remove because it was hollow underneath, This is because the previous owner of the house installed new wooden framed double glazing and made a terrible job in fixing the wall. By the way would you know if I need to prime the existing plaster walls before re-plastering these areas in order for the new plaster to take correctly?

Can you tile on walls fixed with Polyfilla? Its just that I have some holes in the wall to fix which I was going to fix with Polyfilla or is there a better wall filler to use?
 
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S

Scott

chris316 said:
Hi

By the way would you know if I need to prime the existing plaster walls before re-plastering these areas in order for the new plaster to take correctly?

Can you tile on walls fixed with Polyfilla? Its just that I have some holes in the wall to fix which I was going to fix with Polyfilla or is there a better wall filler to use?
Click to expand...

For replastering yes, prime them and as for polyfiller, if you have plaster why not use that? :thumbsup:
 
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C

chris316

Tileshop has given me the following:

Adhesive for wall tiles - Larsen's Professional Showerproof high grab, non-slip, ready-mixed, thin-bed adhesive
(Larsen Building Products - Tiling - Manufacturer, Supplier of Concrete, Mortar and Plaster, Tiling, Flooring, Waterproofing, Timber and Filling and Sealing products based in Northern Ireland.)

Adhesive for Floor tiles - Larsen's Professional Flexible Fast Set
(Larsen Building Products - Tiling - Manufacturer, Supplier of Concrete, Mortar and Plaster, Tiling, Flooring, Waterproofing, Timber and Filling and Sealing products based in Northern Ireland.)

And also some BAL tile grout.

I'm now beginning to wonder wether or not the adhesive they have given me for the floor tiles is suitable. Because my bathroom is upstairs and the floor tiles are going on a wooden floor which I will be sheeting with new plywood.
 
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mikethetile

its the way it dries

tubbed adhesive dries by water dispersing into the tile and substrate and also evaperating through the grout joint

once the tiles are grouted the addy cant set properly in the centre of the tile

with the tiles over a 100mm2 theres no way of telling wether addy has set up enough to grout, it could take days or even weeks to set

with a cement based addy it dries by chemical reaction and willl set behind any size tile
 
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C

chris316

mikethetile said:
its the way it dries

tubbed adhesive dries by water dispersing into the tile and substrate and also evaperating through the grout joint

once the tiles are grouted the addy cant set properly in the centre of the tile

with the tiles over a 100mm2 theres no way of telling wether addy has set up enough to grout, it could take days or even weeks to set

with a cement based addy it dries by chemical reaction and willl set behind any size tile
Click to expand...

OK,

By the sounds of it then, I might be best to go for the cement based adhesive.

Regarding priming the walls, have you any recommendations on what primer to use?

By the way, thanks for your help and sorry if my questions sound very basic or stupid, its just that I have never tiled before and I want to make sure that I am using the right adhesive and preping the walls right in order to avoid retiling in 6 months time.
 
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F

faithhealer

nothing wrong in asking questions chris, as you can see tile shops don't know it all. Not familier with larrson products but generally people like to use the adhesive manufacturers own primer.
I would be looking for a standard (slow) set addy for your walls as opposed to a rapid set then you can take your time, white would also be better as I assume your grout will be light coloured.

Is there a shower involved here chris? if so do a search on here for 'tanking'

FYI I stripped two or three bathrooms last year where the addy was still not set after a couple of years
 
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P

paulyoung666

chris316 said:
By the way, thanks for your help and sorry if my questions sound very basic or stupid, its just that I have never tiled before and I want to make sure that I am using the right adhesive and preping the walls right in order to avoid retiling in 6 months time.
Click to expand...


and you think you have asked loads of stupid questions , i must have asked 10 times as many as you when i did my kitchen :lol: , every one was answered very helpfully as well :hurray:
 
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C

chris316

faithhealer said:
nothing wrong in asking questions chris, as you can see tile shops don't know it all. Not familier with larrson products but generally people like to use the adhesive manufacturers own primer.
I would be looking for a standard (slow) set addy for your walls as opposed to a rapid set then you can take your time, white would also be better as I assume your grout will be light coloured.

Is there a shower involved here chris? if so do a search on here for 'tanking'

FYI I stripped two or three bathrooms last year where the addy was still not set after a couple of years
Click to expand...

Yes there is a shower over the bath.

I have read on here about tanking, but I'm not sure exactly what this is.
 
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