Hexagonal tile/hardwood floor. Grout or Silicon gaps?

[RenovateYourRoost]

Hi,
I'm looking to use hexagonal tiles flowing into engineered oak floorboards on my bathroom floor.
I've attached a link below to a nice example that I'm trying to simulate.

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I'm concerned that if I use grout on the transitions, the grout lines will crack as the wood expands and contracts over time.
However if I use Silicon, I worry the texture of it will look wrong against the grout lines between tile and tile. And will Silicon be as hard wearing on a floor?
Someone suggested siliconing the gaps (using masking tape to get clean lines) and then sprinkling dry grout powder on the wet Silicon joints. Then letting it dry and then vacuuming off excess powder.
Has anyone tried this? (And known it to stand the test if time?) At what point do you remove the tape?
Or got any other suggestions?
My other problem is ensuring tile and hardwood are same height. The oak is 14mm and tiles are 10mm. Was planning on laying all of this on top of 6mm hardie backer board and troweling down adhesive to secure both tiles and floorboards. (Assuming I'll need different adhesive for wood vs tile?)
I'm unsure about adhesive tolerances.
Could I feasibly lay 4mm extra adhesive under the tiles?! Or is that a bit optimistic?!
My other (perhaps better?) option in to use a thicknesser to take 4mm off the underside of my oak boards before laying them...
I'm assuming that underfloor heating is out of the question for this project, but open to bright ideas on that front too..!
Thanks in advance for any tips!

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[al strachan]

Cant you use tile planks instead of engineered wood? Plenty out there that looks as good as the real/engineered wood, and you'll have no issues with different material expansion rates/water etc.

i would think it would be near impossible to get a long lasting/good looking transition between wood/tile, and in a bathroom and it will get wrecked very quickly.

 

[RenovateYourRoost]

Thanks for your feedback. I didn't know such a thing existed! By tile planks do you mean actual ceramic tiles that come in the shape of planks? The surface below would have to be perfectly level for 4ft plus long ceramic tile planks to work though. Would definitely need to use a self levelling compound first. I just have some engineered oak left over from a previous job, and was hoping to put them to use. Perhaps it's impractical though. I guess wood effect vinyl planks instead might be another option too, as they shouldn't expand and contract either.

 

[al strachan]

Yes, ceramic/porcelain tiles that look exactly like wood planks, with the benefits that come with a tile.

most online tile shops seem to have a wood effect/plank section. i know B&Q also have quite a few, but can't speak for the quality, but worth going for a look/feel. Pretty sure all the high street specialist will have a selection on display.

Definately the way forward in a bathroom

 

[RenovateYourRoost]

Ok, thanks for the tip. Will give that a go then.
I'm assuming I'll need to use self levelling compound to get it level enough to lay long tile planks. I'm thinking of laying some 5.5 mm plywood sheets onto my existing floorboards, (i have some leftover from a previous job) to create a smoother, gap free surface, then taping down underfloor heating cable onto it, and pouring self levelling compound onto that. Then laying the hexagonal tiles and tile planks on that. Does that sounds alright?

 

[Old Mod]

Your method will work, but don’t use 5.5mm ply, BS alone says use 15mm min. You’d be better off removing floorboards, screwing down 18mm ply, then overboarding with a 10mm XPS foam insulating board.
lay ufh, then SLC then tile.

 

[RenovateYourRoost]

Thanks for the tips 3_fall. When you say my method will work, are you referring to the technique of using Silicon in the transition between hexagonal tile and engineered flooring, and dusting on grout powder onto the Silicon whilst it's wet to give the desired texture?
I feel that getting these transitions to be durable is going to be my hardest challenge.
Have you used this technique before yourself and known it to last well?
If I have to use tile planks instead, then I will, but I'm keen to incorporate the engineered wood, if it's likely to work. (A joiner friend seems confident that if I PVA the joints and osmo oil both sides of each plank they should be well sealed from moisture.)
I worry that I won't be able to finish off awkward transition cuts as cleanly with tile as I'd be able to with wood (my level of accuracy with a chisel far exceeds my accuracy with an angle grinder!)

 

[Old Mod]

When you say my method will work, are you referring to the technique of using Silicon in the transition between hexagonal tile and engineered flooring, and dusting on grout powder onto the Silicon whilst it's wet to give the desired texture?

No I’m afraid not, I was referring to boarding out the floor.
why not just use a Matt finish Silicon

Sealants Online -

buy mastics silicones sealants, shower and bath waterproofing materials online

www.sealantsonline.co.uk

Otto seal have matt finishes.

 

[Old Mod]

Keeping a flush finish with 14mm boards and 10mm tile won’t be difficult.
with a solid bed of adhesive, your tiled floor will come in at about 14mm.
Adhesive for timber floors will be a contact type with minimal thickness.
mixing timber in between tiles is never going to be a perfect match, it may well have small Issues as time goes by, as you’ve mentioned with expansion and contraction rates.
However if you achieve the look you desire, is it such a big deal to make minor cosmetic repairs on occasion if the basic install is sound?
That said, I’d be going with a porcelain plank and hexagons, not timber.

 

[RenovateYourRoost]

Ok, thanks for that 3_fall. Plenty to think on...