Discuss How can I create tiling surface? in the British & UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

R

Raymond

Hi All,
first time posting on here and doing so cause there seem to be a lot of people that know about tiling. And I don't. :smilewinkgrin:

My question may seem a little complicated but please, do bear with me.

The details:

1. Removed four loose tiles on wall behind bath front, with intent to fix
2. Removed one tile on the adjacent wall -- same level as the four tiles and sharing corner joint.
3. Surface behind four tiles seems to be some sort of backing board (metal/silver plates fixed to concrete)
4. Surface behind four tiles also incomplete - there is a 1cm gap between the bath (behind faucets) and the surface
5. Had to remove with a screw-driver what looked like crumbly, damp chipboard from 1cm gap
6. Surface behind adjacent tile is half metallic; the other half is soft-like-putty, chipboard -- same sort of stuff I removed with the screw-driver.

After realising this job was not as simple as I expected, I began wondering what I should do about the gap and the damp chipboard before replacing the old tiles.

The options seemed to be:

a) Clean both surfaces, leave to dry and re-fix tiles in standard way then add Silicon
b) Clean both surfaces as above; buy something to create a sturdy surface across 1 cm gap; remove damp chipboard from adjacent wall and then apply same approach to create flat surface; refix tiles in standard way and then add Silicon

The reason I do not want to follow (a) is I am pretty sure the reason the tiles became loose was the last fitter didn't do much different from that. The reason I find (b) daunting is I know next to zilch about DIY and would not know where to begin when sourcing the correct materials or carrying out the work.

This is why I am hoping some of you on here eat these kinds of questions up for breakfast.

So, I am keenly looking forward to your responses. :drool5:

Kind regards

Raymond

PS: I am trying to save money (credit crunch an' all); but do feel free to let me know if getting a professional in is the best solution.
 
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R

Raymond

Right, as you guys know about tiling and I thought I should know about computers. After all that is how I bring home the bacon. So instead of tomorrow, here are the 2 piccies I managed to upload using blue-tooth (first time as well, really:hurray:).

Have a butchers and let me know what you think.

PS: How do I get this thread into the Tiling forum; thinking it might get more responses that way or does it not matter (I know I should be able to figure this out myself)
 

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  • Surface 2 - after removing 4 tiles.jpg
    Surface 2 - after removing 4 tiles.jpg
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R

Raymond

Not really sure Dave. We bought the house towards the end of last year and the previous owner (bless her) probably did up the bathroom beforehand. The reason I say that is it is in good condition. But she may have just been very tidy.

I should also mention that the walls on which these surfaces are, are a little forward from the true walls that run to the ceiling -- all the way round in the bathroom. It's as if someone fitted an extra skirt-like layer (if you like) on top of the true walls.
 
D

DHTiling

OK then...just looks like it has been tiled a while..

clean any loose debri off the substrate and let it dry....also clean the old seal from around the bath..it looks like it needs re-doing..

Fix the tiles back in place with a suitable adhesive for a shower area and leave to dry then regrout whilst trying to keep grout out of the seal area...again once dry then re-seal around the bath...before you seal though raymond 3/4 fill the bath to put in under weight stress before you seal. then leave it over night and empty..

It's a small patch up and not worth getting a pro in...

If you decide to re-tile then come back at a later date and we can sort you a good fixer..
 
R

Raymond

Cheers Dave.

Your suggestion sounds like option (a) in my original email. I am worried about the bottom 1cm on each of the four tiles. Firstly they will not be fixed to anything by the adhesive. Secondly when I grout, the grout has nothing to rest against.

How long do you think it would last before the tiles loosen again? I should add that the spaces between the tiles are very thin. The original tiler probably preferred it this way.
 
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D

DHTiling

You can fill the void with Silicon...but looking at the job really raymond..it will be a patch up till you decide to re-tile..

It's possible that they are to tightly jointed ( the tiles) and if you pull anymore off to patch the wall in with a new piece, they might just all come off...

It's hard to say how well adhered they are without actually seeing the job at face value..
 
R

Raymond

@Dave

When you say the void, do you mean the long dark gap? And when you say Silicon, I guess you mean the same stuff used to seal joints that could be exposed to water?

The chipboard on the adjacent wall is probably knackered. I guess I could scrape away the chipboard and fill with Silicon. I am just hoping the surface will be strong and flat enough for the tile.

@whitebeam

You are probably right though I know nothing about the metal frame system.
 
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D

DHTiling

Raymond...if it is chipboard( can't tell from pic) then use a poly filler once it's dry, not Silicon...and yes i mean the long dark line....

It just looks like water has got in through the seal at the bath edge.....and collected in the corner..

But like i have already daid it will be just a patch up so you can use the bath/shower..it might last a few more yrs...hard to say how well the rest of the installation is intact..
 
R

Raymond

Hi there,
I got distracted by a number of things over the past week so I had to put this job on ice. Nevertheless, thanks for all the advice you have gave me -- it certainly helped to lighten the burden.

My plan is to go out and get the necessary tools and materials before repairing the tiles. Just to make sure I have understood the suggestions, here is what I believe is necessary:

1. Scrape away chipboard adjacent wall (left)
2. Remove old adhesive from all surfaces
3. Fill the long dark gap behind the taps with Silicon and allow to dry
4. Cover Silicon with poly filla especially where surface is not smooth
5. Repeat 3 & 4 for the adjacent wall, except apply Silicon and polyfilla to area where chipboard used to be.
6. Let all surfaces dry

Steps 1-6 should provide me with firm, waterproof tiling surfaces on both walls and I presume all that will remain is a standard tiling job.

I will be very grateful if you could confirm whether my understanding is correct and recommend any good/suitable Silicon or polyfilla products/brands.

Many thanks

Raymond
 

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