How to support first row tiles in tanked shower?

[steved21]

I've just tanked my shower (using BAL WP1) and am ready to start tiling. Normal practice is obviously to begin tiling just under one tile hight up from the tray and support the first row of tiles on level wooden battons screwed or nailed to the wall. But this will pierce the tanking, which I'm guessing isn't a good idea. So, how do I support the first row of tiles? - or is it acceptable to begin tiling straight from the shower tray, as this should be exactly level anyway?

Thanks.

 

[Alan.P]

You could start from the tray using a spacer laid flat for the silicone expansion, that is as you say, if it's level, or you could use a batten on batten stands or a batten with some sort of prop, or, depending on adhesive, you could 'hang' the first row above the cuts.

 

[Stewart]

Just measure, cut and fix the bottom row of tile first as there's no need to start the next row up......


Created on iPhone.....

 

[Colour Republic]

Depending on the weight of the tiles most decent adhesives will hold tiles without batons.

Set the tile then pull down on the tile to your datum rather than pushing up will also help.

If the tiles do need a little support I sometimes hold them with 2 panel pins under the tile. Yes this does pierce the tanking but tanking a shower is very different to tanking say a basement where you are trying to hold constant moisture out rather than occasional small amounts of moisture in.

Or you could use some baton stands, or you could start off the shower tray, but not with a full tile unless your setting out dictates this will work.

 

[Sean Kelly]

Steve, Glad to read that you are tanking your shower area.
Are you just tiling yr shower area or are you tiling the whole room?
If it’s just the shower area and your shower tray is level, then there is no reason why you can’t start tiling from the tray (leaving a small gap where the tile meets the tray). Are you tiling up to the ceiling? Will you be left with a slither of tile at the top? Work out where you last row of tiles are going to end up. You could always adjust your grout width to make sure a ‘slither’ does not occur.

If you are tiling the whole room, then you have to consider your other sanitary ware positions. Starting with a whole tile at the shower may force you to tile slithers in other places like over a bath or just above/below your window etc.

However, to actually answer your question you could use a wood baton held up with two smaller lengths of wood or you could use a tile (at an angle) to hold up your first row.

 

[jay]

Cut the first row in and away you go

 

[steved21]

Thanks for the replies all - much appreciated.

I'm only tiling the shower cubicle and a splashback above a counter top that houses a semi countertop basin, concealed cistern for a wc and a couple of cupboards. The shower cubicle will be tiled from tray to ceiling. There will be a mosaic border though so I do need to cut the first row for the shower to get the same border height as the splash back. The shower tray is 100% level though so I'll cut the first row to suit the border requirements and tile straight up from the tray, using spacers to give me a suitable gap for silicone.

Thanks again for the tips gents.

 

[DHTiling]

And maybe some pics of progress and complete job would be nice

 

[steved21]

^^ Ok Dave, that's a deal. I'm a new member on here & have been given some great advice so far, so it's only right I give something back. I won't actually start tiling until the weekend after this one, so it'll be a wee while before I post up the first pics.

 

[DHTiling]

Sound 

 

[Daz]

In your position, I would mark a horizontal line around the shower cubicle and cut the bottom row in so that I could tile from that.

Will be great to see some pics.

Daz

 

[Dave Ramsden]

If you fix your baton and tile up, when the tile are dry you can use any spare tanking material and resin to cover your holes. Remember to fill them first and overlay with the membrane then the resin