Information on Epoxy Grouts

[Ste450]

Has anyone worked with epoxy grouts? I'm sick of the way cement based grouts get darker when wet and how dirty they get, especially in wet areas and on floors.
What's the workability like and does the finish look as perfect as your usual cement based grout? I've heard epoxy is tougher to work with and harder to clean off residues. Any thoughts? Cheers

 

[Qwerty]

There are plenty of threads about epoxy grouts and useful tips.

What level of experience are you? I personally wouldn't recommend epoxy to a novice tiler.

Kerakoll epoxy grout gets good reviews here and so does Mapei Kerapoxy. Personally I have only ever used Mapei but will be giving the Kerakoll a go soon.

 

[gamma38]

Used Mapei today, great stuff. Easy to apply and wash off.

 

[ISOMAT technical support]

Have you guys used Isomat? We have got two types
Multifill epoxy Thixo and Multifill epoxy Flow,
Both have different specs, Flow is for floor as it is designed with
better flow and easier application, and Thixo suitable for both floors and walls, both grouts are easily cleaned with water before they set. Pot life approx 45min at 23'C cleaning within 45min of application with luke warm water, 10% white spirit can be added to water for even easier cleaning.
Worth trying? White and light grey in stock.
Please call 01483 511113 for more info and prices.

 

[One Day]

There's a lot of bad reputation with epoxy and it's not deserved.
If you are methodical, work cleanly and most importantly - use a proper epoxy float and white emulsifying pads - you can't go wrong.
I use a lot of kerapoxy and unless it's the depths of winter, it's an easy product to use and gives great results - dare I say, easier and better than cementitious grouts.

People get in a mess (literally) when they use standard grout floats and sponges, or they don't clean up methodically.

Epoxy is great if you have an ocd approach to grouting.
If you slop it all over - forget it.

 

[Chris_32]

Has anyone used or had experience of Ardex EG8 Plus? does it have the same performance as normal epoxy grout regarding not staining and is it really as easy to apply and clean off as cement grouts?

 

[gamma38]

Has anyone used or had experience of Ardex EG8 Plus? does it have the same performance as normal epoxy grout regarding not staining and is it really as easy to apply and clean off as cement grouts?

I have, to put it bluntly it's crap. Don't waste your money.

 

[Ste450]

There are plenty of threads about epoxy grouts and useful tips.

What level of experience are you? I personally wouldn't recommend epoxy to a novice tiler.

Kerakoll epoxy grout gets good reviews here and so does Mapei Kerapoxy. Personally I have only ever used Mapei but will be giving the Kerakoll a go soon.

I'm not a novice, so don't worry I use Mapei cement based grouts so I'd probably use their kerapoxy. Is there much of a contrast between them both, different textures that would be noticeable like doing the floor in epoxy and the walls in the normal gear or would you recommend doing the whole lot in epoxy for continuity?

 

[Qwerty]

Usually just the floor should suffice

 

[Ste450]

Usually just the floor should suffice

Cheers mate

 

[MTiler]

Has anyone used or had experience of Ardex EG8 Plus? does it have the same performance as normal epoxy grout regarding not staining and is it really as easy to apply and clean off as cement grouts?

Awful stuff, hated it.

 

[MTiler]

I often have to use epoxy on the steam room and spa stuff I do and have used several makes of epoxy, I hate it and have developed a sensitivity to it.
But the best epoxy I have ever used is Kerakolls Fugalite ECO Liquid Ceramic. Very fluid as it can be used on very narrow joints from 0-5mm (most start at 2-3mm). There is no need to use umpteen emulsifying pads to clean it. They have a 'Wash' which you put a capful of in a bucket, and with a sponge its easy to clean, with hardly any residue. If it needs a clean once dry then you use 'Soap' which you use neat to get rid of any residue.
But the game changer for me is their new range called Fugalite Bio which is a water based resin which is hypo-allergenic (and can be used externally). If it starts to stiffen (which takes some doing) you can add a shot of water to it.
Its the only epoxy I want to use. Forget Kerapoxy etc this is the mutts nuts.
I never thought Id get excited about an epoxy.

 

[NZ_Tiler]

I use kerapoxy a lot.

From experience make a decision about the surface of the tile, if it's to rough or porous it may not be suitable for epoxy.

Get the right tools.
Epoxy grout floats are very stiff, the newer the better, as the corners are "sharper".
Get the epoxy pads, they're a woven pad thing, similar to a large scotch pad. Don't use imitations as the dye or fibres may come out when grouting.
Plenty of sponges.


Step 1. Make sure all joints are clean and ready for great. You don't want to be wasting time once epoxy has been mixed.

Step 2. Use warm water for washing. Again, get it ready before mixing epoxy. Not all jobs have warm/hot water on site, so getting it can take time.

Step 3. I buy 2kg kits. I prefer it over 5kg as I can comfortably use 2kg before the workability becomes hard. Mix full 2kg kit. Don't mix partial kits. Mix with mechanical mixer only. Don't try doing it by hand.

Step 4. Grout. Work the grout in to the joints. "Cut" the excess grout off the surface of the tile with the edges of the grout float. The less you leave on the tiles the easier it is to wash.

Step 5. Wash. Use the damp abrasive pad to break up the grout on the surface of the tile. Use a circular motion, with only light pressure. If you're washing a lot you may need to change pads as they will clog up.

Step 6. Wash tiles with clean warm water and sponge. I normally wash twice. You need to take off as much residue as possible.

Step 7. Check joints. Make sure all are right and perfect as the next day the grout will hard and very difficult to repair.

Step 8. Following day, if needed I'll use the kerapoxy cleaner to polish up any residue on the tile.

 

[MTiler]

I use kerapoxy a lot.

From experience make a decision about the surface of the tile, if it's to rough or porous it may not be suitable for epoxy.

Get the right tools.
Epoxy grout floats are very stiff, the newer the better, as the corners are "sharper".
Get the epoxy pads, they're a woven pad thing, similar to a large scotch pad. Don't use imitations as the dye or fibres may come out when grouting.
Plenty of sponges.


Step 1. Make sure all joints are clean and ready for great. You don't want to be wasting time once epoxy has been mixed.

Step 2. Use warm water for washing. Again, get it ready before mixing epoxy. Not all jobs have warm/hot water on site, so getting it can take time.

Step 3. I buy 2kg kits. I prefer it over 5kg as I can comfortably use 2kg before the workability becomes hard. Mix full 2kg kit. Don't mix partial kits. Mix with mechanical mixer only. Don't try doing it by hand.

Step 4. Grout. Work the grout in to the joints. "Cut" the excess grout off the surface of the tile with the edges of the grout float. The less you leave on the tiles the easier it is to wash.

Step 5. Wash. Use the damp abrasive pad to break up the grout on the surface of the tile. Use a circular motion, with only light pressure. If you're washing a lot you may need to change pads as they will clog up.

Step 6. Wash tiles with clean warm water and sponge. I normally wash twice. You need to take off as much residue as possible.

Step 7. Check joints. Make sure all are right and perfect as the next day the grout will hard and very difficult to repair.

Step 8. Following day, if needed I'll use the kerapoxy cleaner to polish up any residue on the tile.

In the UK its the white emulsifying pads you need to use. Get them from a cleaning company not a tile store as they put stupid prices on them. Or use Kerakolls and you wont need any pads, just sponges, although I prefer sponge cloths.

 

[Knight on tiles]

Recently used the new BAL Easypoxy, found it excellent. Pretty much just like using a normal cement based grout & no hassle washing it down afterwards.