Kitchen Timber Floor Prep work

[GlennM]

hi there

I am about to start my first floor tiling job on timber and have been reading through the site for hints and tips. The only floors i have done up to now are concrete.

From advice I have been given, i had planned to do the following.

- Kitchen is all floorboards, so I am going to put down plywood.
- screwed down every 4 inches (100 mm) in grids
- plywood of 12mm depth (afraid to go any higher to avoid creating a big gap/step at doorways)

A lot of the posts mention using primer on the back of the plywood and edges. It might be a stupid question but why am I doing this? Are the screws not going to make it solid enough? or is there another reason?

- as for adhesive and grout. I am planning on using flexi adhesive and flexi grout. Is this the correct way to go?

Is there anything else important that I am missing?

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks
Glenn

 

[div]

hav u looked in 2 backerboards 6mm mate?:smilewinkgrin:

 

[david campbell]

sounds like you have everything planned out well

the primer is for moisture and the drying out of the adhesive

 

[White Room]

Pretty well sorted there Glen, the reason for the priming is just to seal the ply in case any moisture especialy in bathrooms or shower rooms

 

[GlennM]

Thanks guys.

So if it is just a kitchen and their won't be much moisture, can I skip this bit? Do I have to prime the back of the ply thats touching the floorboards?

Div - i actually don't know anything about backerboards. Would they be a better way to go than ply?

Thanks again

 

[doug boardley]

looks as tho' you've got all bases covered Glenn, altho' I'd be looking at hardiebacker boards really

 

[david campbell]

Thanks guys.

So if it is just a kitchen and their won't be much moisture, can I skip this bit? Do I have to prime the back of the ply thats touching the floorboards?

Div - i actually don't know anything about backerboards. Would they be a better way to go than ply?

Thanks again

they would be better and the minimum height for ply would be 12mm whereas backerboards can be used in 6mm

 

[div]

do a search in the forum mate u should find all the info u need..if not google..best of:smilewinkgrin:

 

[peckers]

Thanks guys.

So if it is just a kitchen and their won't be much moisture, can I skip this bit? Do I have to prime the back of the ply thats touching the floorboards?

Div - i actually don't know anything about backerboards. Would they be a better way to go than ply?

Thanks again

I would always prime the ply no matter its only in the kitchen, and it doesn't take much time or expense, if you were to nock over the bucket of water while mopping the floor then you are giving the ply added protection in case it got damp.
If you want to decrease the level of the floor which is raised by the ply then use the hardi backerboard,

you will find info on it here on this site, sorry dont know where as i am still finding my way round ere..:smilewinkgrin:

 

[Ajax123]

Is the primer not simply to prevent too much suction from the timber - to stop it sucking the moisture out of the addy before it has time to set properly.

 

[Time's Ran Out]

Glenn - We used to lay waterproof paper, chicken wire and a sand & cement screed on wooden floors. Then came WBP 12-15mm plywood as British Standard. Now its Hardie backer boards at 6mm. That's progress and its certainly a lot easier.
Go the tile backer board route!

Timeless John.

 

[grumpygrouter]

Is the primer not simply to prevent too much suction from the timber - to stop it sucking the moisture out of the addy before it has time to set properly.

Whether you prime the tiling face of the ply is dependant on the adhesive manufacturers instructions. BAL say not to prime, but Ardex do (with 7001 adhesive) for instance.