Laying Wood Effect Porcelain - Advice and grout selection

[Buckfast]

Hi All

Getting a big job done on the kitchen come living room. Having wood effect porcelain planks installed. It is part of a renovation of my new house and the builder is looking after most of the work. He will have his tiler do the work, but just wanted to check in here with the experts to make sure all is done properly. (Im in Ireland by the way).

1. We are going for a 2mm joint, im told that anything else is not advisable. We dont want to go larger as I prefer the look of the narrow grout line.
2. We are going with a 33% overlap, as I have seen this recommended.
3. I need to source the best quality grout (the builder is getting the adhesive). Is Mapei Ultracolor plus a good choice?? ( I assume this is a flexible grout?)
4. Any advice on choosing a grout colour?

Thanks

 

[Rookery]

1. I'd also go for 2mm joint despite BS advising 3mm
2. I prefer random but if 1/3 bond suits that's up to you. Get the tiler to lay a few loose for you to see.
3. I'd use Ultracolor Plus.
4. I'd go for a grout colour close to or just darker than the tile colour.
A perimeter movement joint is essential and, if it's a big job, there might also need to have intermediate movement joints, depending on shape/size of floor(s).

 

[Old Mod]

Hi and welcome to the forum.
Where in Ireland are you?
We have Irelands finest tile contractor as a member.
To be honest, a random tile layout looks far superior to any regularly staggered design.
If a competent fitter undertakes your project he should be able to accommodate.
Ucp is a good grout, however not liked by all.
Personally I like a dark contrasting grout with planks so that it resembles a real timber floor.

 

[gamma38]

In your comment you say the builder is getting your adhesive. Is it a builder doing the tiling? or a tiler? Planks can be quite tricky and easy to get wrong. It could be good for you if you ask him if he's confident and competent to carry out the tiling. There are too many threads on here of bad installs. He may well be a great tiler.... just thought i would mention it.

 

[Buckfast]

Thanks both. I just thought about 1/3 as it has been recommended. For example, the Mapei website recommends it. I think random might be nicer too. Great looking work there in the photos. I am in County Meath, Rep of Ireland

 

[Old Mod]

. I am in County Meath, Rep of Ireland

Oh ok, our member is a little further north
Yes random is much nicer.

 

[John Benton]

I'm with Marc, random bond looks far superior for me. Mapei UCP I don't have any problems, used to do, but not any more. Watch out for bowed tiles though, check before laying, otherwise your builder/tiler could end up in a mess

 

[Flintstone]

One I've recently finished, random bond

 

[wayne]

I've got some to fix on Monday and on the box it says no more than third bond for fixing purposes. Guessing there a bit bowed then

 

[kevsalt]

thats the prob with planks....bowing ....ive laid some really good ones even 1.2 long but ive seen some shockers ..bananas

 

[Tile Shop]

Get 2 planks, lay them face to face, clamp them together dead centre so the gap created by the bow is equal at both ends, measure the gap an divide it by 2 to get the amount of bow per tile. If its more than 2mm, its technically out of tolerance to comply with BSEN14411.

But with the correct layout you should still be able to get round it without it causing lippage. Could also have some levelling clips on hand for the odd tile here and there.

 

[Tile Shop]

Side note, no manufacturer recommends half bond. But i think thats a good thing anyway. Shorter random bond looks better imo and makes it look closer to real or engineered wood, rather than having a uniform stagger or step which takes the naturality (is that a word?) out of the appearance.

 

[LM]

Hi @Buckfast, hope you go easy on the stuff lol
One aspect that is always important, but even more crucial to a class looking job with planks is good prep. Make sure the substrate (floor) is flat, I can't emphasis enough how important that is to a real good looking plank effect floor. Have a chat with the tiler and builder before tiling starts and make sure that the floor is flat every where, around the sides and through the thresholds etc. Time and money spent getting that right to start with will be well worth it in the end, good luck

 

[Old Mod]

Side note, no manufacturer recommends half bond. But i think thats a good thing anyway. Shorter random bond looks better imo and makes it look closer to real or engineered wood, rather than having a uniform stagger or step which takes the naturality (is that a word?) out of the appearance.

Can you draw me a diagram of a short random bond Paul please, don't quite follow.

 

[Buckfast]

Can you draw me a diagram of a short random bond Paul please, don't quite follow.

 

[Buckfast]

View attachment 87691

Which grout colour do you recommend?!

 

[Old Mod]

Obviously it's personal choice, for me, I'd go for a darker contrast.
Reasons being that with a darker colour it won't as a rule change colour with wear,tear and washing.
Also if you look at the average timber floor,there is a noticeable joint between the planks, which in a lot of cases appears very dark.
If you have a lighter colour it instantly looks like tiles.

 

[Tile Shop]

Can you draw me a diagram of a short random bond Paul please, don't quite follow.

In this, the tile is 1200x230. The stagger is random between 100 and 300mm (quarter). You could go longer if the tile is flat enough. but this is my preferred layout.

 

[Italy]

In this, the tile is 1200x230. The stagger is random between 100 and 300mm (quarter). You could go longer if the tile is flat enough. but this is my preferred layout.
View attachment 87697

these, straighten with rls there is a trick

 

[LM]

I wouldn't be bothered tiling planks now without clips, so much quicker, better and a God send for bowed tiles

 

[Italy]

someone knows the trick?
because for me it is too difficult to explain.
otherwise later on I design

 

[LM]

someone knows the trick?
because for me it is too difficult to explain.
otherwise later on I design

Well I'm always keen to learn Antonio, hopefully you can show me a trick about bowed tiles that I never knew. I look forward to your design

 

[Italy]

I think that someone know already ...
it's just the procedure of pulling rls.

NO. 1 2 3
YES. 1 3 2

the pocedure NO, because after the second, the third becomes too low and rls, fails to level good.
the procedure YES. first pull one, then pull 3, finally the second, including supporting one knee, succeeds to level embarking the tile.
while rls number 1 and 3 remain precise.
I posed 100x50 boarded, brick type, same procedure, however, to pull the number 2, I went up standing to the tile. 65kg, to straighten tile. (The story must remain between us)

 

[Italy]

already they knew all...................

 

[LM]

I think that someone know already ...
it's just the procedure of pulling rls.

NO. 1 2 3
YES. 1 3 2

the pocedure NO, because after the second, the third becomes too low and rls, fails to level good.
the procedure YES. first pull one, then pull 3, finally the second, including supporting one knee, succeeds to level embarking the tile.
while rls number 1 and 3 remain precise.
I posed 100x50 boarded, brick type, same procedure, however, to pull the number 2, I went up standing to the tile. 65kg, to straighten tile. (The story must remain between us)

View attachment 87699

Yes Antonio I have done this before, but only on a very short staggered bond with a plank at least 900mm long. By doing this your splitting the resistance in half because points 1 & 3 are clamped the distance point 2 has to travel to be flush is halved and easier to achieve.
You explained that very well, bravo!