Levelling a wall before tiling

[AmateurTiler1981]

Hi guys my first post here.

I've had a new ensuite installed and the builder (who has parted ways given his dodgy workmanship) has channeled the new pipes down the wall from the attic and covered them over with what looks like some form or mortar.

The wall is now quite uneven in places, what would you suggest I do by way of levelling out the wall before tiling? The tiles I'm using are the 20cmx10cm metro tiles. Should I be looking to batton and add plasterboard or some hardiebacker board potentially? Or can I get away with leveling it with adhesive or some other form or cement/sand mix? The total area is just one side of the shower approx 90cmx240cm

Many thanks in advance

 

[Old Mod]

Welcome to the forum.
Trying to flatten a wall for such small tiles can be tricky, and can leave undulations in the tiles if you’re not spot on.
You could prime the wall and using a straight edge, overfill the low spots and pull the edge over the top, using the main part of the wall as your guide.
Prime again before tiling.
If you have the depth to play with, another way would be to dot and dab wedi style waterproof boards. (Hardiebacker is NOT waterproof)
Or trowel wall with tile adhesive if wall is mainly flattish.
Glue edges together as they’re fitted, that’ll waterproof joint, and then using their waterproof tape, tape the corner and the floor joint.
Then following day use mechanical fixings in the dabs to ensure securing the board. (Mark location of dabs when you fit it)
You’ll need wedi style washers with the screws too. Then cut bits of tape up to fit over the washers and you’ll have a totally waterproof wall.
There are many board manufacturers, I’ve used wedi as an example because finding images of their products is very easy, so you’ll know what you’re looking for.
Dukkaboard
Jackoboard
Marmox
These are just a few.

 

[Sunny]

Hi 3_fall many thanks for your comments.

When you say overfill the low spots what do you suggest to overfill with. Are you suggesting back buttering the tiles to make up the difference in depth? The problem I have is where he has fitted the pipes these are essentially bulging out which means I need to bring the rest of the wall out further. I'll try and add a pic to help explain.

I'll take a look at the waterproof boards you've mentioned.

 

[Tiler Durden]

Never use the tiles to flatten your wall.
Get yourself a featheredge and go over with tile adhesive. Don’t worry about getting it perfect, it might need a second pass to fill voids etc.
Don’t be tempted to use a spirit level to scrape off the adhesive. A featheredge is thin one edge so you can see very easily how flat the wall is. This is all assuming you’re not 3” out of true. Maybe post some photos to see what we have?

 

[AmateurTiler1981]

Tiler Durden thanks for your input too. Picture attached below the brown mortar bits are covering the new pipes but they aren't flush as you can probably see from the picture the pipes are still visible in parts. So the dark brown patches are slightly higher than the rest of the wall. Could I possibly use a cement and sand mixture similar to that used to conceal the pipes to level the whole of that wall?

Many thanks

 

[Dumbo]

You need another plumber . It should of been tiled before the shower mixer was fitted and associated parts and also be tied before the shower screen was fitted

 

[AmateurTiler1981]

Hi jcrtiling...... Thanks for responding, that was the reason he was told to leave the job......im now trying to rectify the situation

 

[Spare Tool]

Sorry to say it but you've been right royaly turned over here, as advised above...no screen or fittings should have been fitted until after tiling

 

[AmateurTiler1981]

He's not been paid and won't be getting paid either he's well aware of that. I'll just have to take everything off and start from scratch I guess now.

 

[Tiler Durden]

Yes, remove the shower screen and shower. Cap off the shower valve and then sort the walls out. A cement based adhesive should be fine. Quite difficult to see the condition of the surrounding wall though. Make sure any loose plaster is knocked off. Once the adhesive is fully dry then a tanking coat is required before tiling.
Alternative a plasterer for half a day to asses and make good the wall- please note, a skim coat would be required. Bonding plaster* on its own isn’t suitable

Edit*

 

[Bill]

Alternative a plasterer for half a day to asses and make good the wall- please note, a skim coat would be required. Bonding plasterboard on its own isn’t suitable

Why would you skim plasterboard in a wet area? It is pointless.

 

[AmateurTiler1981]

I thought if I boarded it up I wouldn't need to plaster and tiles hold stronger on fresh board as opposed to having been skimmed or plastered. From what I've read anyway I could be wrong.

 

[Tiler Durden]

Don’t skim the plasterboard wall. I was talking about the other wall that needs making good.The whole lot does need tanking though.
I didn’t mean plasterboard, I meant plaster. My mistake. The back wall is plaster no?

 

[AmateurTiler1981]

Yes the wall with the shower head fitted was the old built in cupboard area which was plastered and had wall paper on it previously (which has been removed).

 

[Dumbo]

I thought if I boarded it up I wouldn't need to plaster and tiles hold stronger on fresh board as opposed to having been skimmed or plastered. From what I've read anyway I could be wrong.

You're not wrong , if I was you I would remove everything and follow @3_fall 's guidance after checking tolerances of your shower screen and possibly extending your pipe tails for the shower mixer . If tolerances don't allow in the shower screen it may pay to remove and refit the shower tray away from the wall a little .
I know it sounds a lot but do it right do it once