Newbie looking for info on travertine

[rsb123]

Getting ready to do my first tile job - our new bathroom: travertine 305x450 on 2 walls and floor, mosaic on 1 wall. Need info on preparing subfloor, sealing, whether I need to tank around tub (shower over) and whether to use trim on corners, so off to search I go.
thanks

 

[doug boardley]

let's get the ball rolling with.."what are the existing substrates (walls and floors) ?

 

[doug boardley]

oh and welcome to TF, would you like me to move your question into the main forum?

 

[White Room]

Hi and welcome..

 

[rsb123]

Thanks for the quick reply. I wasn't expecting personalised help, but happy to hear your opinions. I've only done light diy, and never tile, so I'm trying to do my homework and will call in pro help if I come up against something that's beyond me.

I don't have 100% of info yet, as it's a new home (to us) and we don't complete for another 2 weeks. Here's what I know:

- 2 walls are external, so brick/block
- 1 wall timber/plaster with door and shower head, looks like plumbing for shower on this wall encased in some kind of 'bump-out' maybe made of wood?
- last wall will not be tiled (just painted)
- All walls have ceramic (porcelain?) tile on now which will be removed
- Floor currently has vinyl on it, so I assume I'll have to strengthen it with 15/18mm plywood?
- No UFH

Plan is to put 305x457 travertine on 2 walls around shower over bath, and trav mosaic on 3rd wall with window (away from shower).

I assume no weight/load issues tiling onto brick walls and the gypsum wall has only 40% tile coverage due to doorway and bathtub taking up large part of wall space.

My main concern is the floor. I just read a few threads about nightmare tiles coming up after 6 months, so most interested in how to prepare floor the right way to make it rock solid. I don't like the idea but have accepted the fact the bath floor will be about 5cm higher than rest of upstairs flooring and kids will trip every time the enter bathroom...

Also wondering if one of those £40 30x30cm wet saws they sell at topps will cut the 457mm tile lengthwise or do I need to shell out for a £300 rubi.

thanks

 

[Deleted member 1779]

And if you are drilling it for holes (as a material its actually quite soft) then we do a nice little kit for £49.99

Assume you will need to
a) Put up mirrors, hooks, toilet roll, toothbrush holder, towel rail, radiators,
b) Put service pipes in like waste at 32mm, shower heads, bath fill, sink fill etc

 

[rsb123]

And if you are drilling it for holes (as a material its actually quite soft) then we do a nice little kit for £49.99



Assume you will need to
a) Put up mirrors, hooks, toilet roll, toothbrush holder, towel rail, radiators,
b) Put service pipes in like waste at 32mm, shower heads, bath fill, sink fill etc

Thanks for the recommendation, but what is the advantage of spending £50 on that kit vs just buying 32mm, 16mm and 6mm diamond drill bits off ebay for less than half that price?

thanks

 

[Deleted member 1779]

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In total you will be paying £41.66 plus UK VAT for seven drills which is £5.95 per drill. Plus VAT.
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Free Guide Plate

 

[rsb123]

Here are the questions I've been woondering about and haven't yet found answers for:

1. Should I lay floor or wall tile first or does it not make much difference?

2. If the existing subfloor is 15-18mm WBP ply do I need to overboard with anything?

3. Should expansion gap be left around perimeter of floor on both overboarding subfloor and tile itself. If yes, how many mm?

4. Should overboarding be glued or screwed down or both?

5. What do I prime overboarding with?

6. Should buttering back of tiles be necessary for either floor or wall?

7. What the best brand type of adhesive for brick walls and wood floor?

8. I was leaning towards slow set adhesive to give me more time to work and avoid adhesive hardening in bucket, but most adhesives I see are rapid set. Is slow set a bad idea?

9. With potentially 18mm ply + 6mm adhesive + 12mm tile, I'm looking at a 36mm step up to bathroom (from carpeted hall). Who the heck makes a transition to cover that?

thanks folks

 

[stevetile]

hi rsb

i wud say

1) wall first as u dont wanna keep walking over tiles while working an poss ruining them in fitting time.
2) I would reconmend priming the walls an floor before as well as using a product such as Mapegum from Mapei check out there website for all products MAPEI adhesives sealants chemical products for construction all tile giants stock their products.
3) not 100% sure but i sudn't think you would need one.
4) Id say both.
5) many people have their own preferences once again id say check Mapei for their products.
6) back buttereing is essential on all floor and wall to fill in all the air pockets making a stronger tile and giving you a better grip and solid tile.
7) any travertine tile needs to be a powdered white flexiable adhesive, white because of the pourusness of the tile you dont want it soaking through grey adhesive and spoiling the finish. again look up Mapei id reconmend the keraquick or keramaxi which is an S1 adhesive. Keraquick being quick set Keramaxi being slow set.
8) some tilers swear only by slow set adhesive they say it gives you a better bond to the tile cos it has more time to adhere to the tile an wall better look for Keramaxi again (I know i repeat myself alot but i think Mapei is the best stuff.)
9) cant really help on the step up but i can tell you something u dont want to here an that is for a travertine tile i wud be reconmending a much bigger bed than 6mm adhesive, more like a 10mm minimum sorry.

and last of all please dont forget about the sealing process, the company www.LTP.co.uk have everything u need, start with Grimex to prep ur area, Mattstone to seal and Waxwash for ur after care best stuff to keep ur tiles looking brill.

hope that is some help, but take all my word for it have a good ask about an hopefully people will back me up on my understanding.

Regards
Steve

 

[rsb123]

Great info - thanks.

If I'm overboarding something like chipboard and have to glue it down (before screwing), which should I use: tile adhesive or builders adhesive like 'No More Nails' exterior grade?

I read that I should prime back and sides of overboards but not face being tiled onto -- sounds counter-intuitive to me -- is that right?

What to prime with? I'm using Mapei Keraflex Maxi slow set (white), Mapei Ultracolor Grout, and Mapesil AC sealant... so it should be Mapei G Primer I guess? Then I'll have full guarantee from my Italian brothers at Mapei right?

Also, I have borrowed a Silverline wet saw with about 30x30cm table but no guide edge. How difficult will it be to cut a 45cm tile lengthwise? Guess I should practice on a few of the crappy tiles first eh?

thanks

 

[Aspect Tiling]

Overboarding with cement board will give a far superior substrate to fix your tiles to, however the existing timber floor must be deflection free 1st. Hardiebacker requires tile adhesive to fill any voids as well as screws, where as No More Ply requires there own super strength adhesive/glue and screws. As you can see it depends on the manufacturers instructions.

The priming of the back and sides of boards relates to timber overboarding and helps prevent any moisture ingression from below. The cement boards don't need priming, a damp sponge would surffice to clean off the surface dust prior to tiling.

Primer G if using all other Mapei products.

Recommend you either tank the shower area with a membrane/paint on system. Or fix aquapanel or similar to the wall prior to tiling.

You should be able to manage with your wet saw but might be worth investing in a decent blade (have a look at trade tiler amongst the forum sponsers, top left). As you say a bit of practice wouldn't go a miss.

Good luck

 

[rsb123]

So, if I understand correctly:

1. prime 15mm or 18mm WBP on back and sides with Primer G
2. screw ply to chipboard every 30cm, leaving 2-3mm expansion gap around perimeter and between boards
3. then layer of tile adhesive
4. then Hardiebacker board over adhesive and screwed down
5. then allow that to set until adhesive dry
6. then more adhesive and travertine

Hoping nobody recommends a decoupling membrane as this is turning into a lot of layers.

thanks

 

[davemul]

I would say take the chipboard up? lay 18mm plywood (and any extra noggins, add as required for extra strength)

Then overboard with a tile backer board (marmox/wedi etc)

then slap your tiles on. Would be a good time to add underfloor heating with any space youve saved