Newbie Travertine Project - Advice Needed

[richburgan]

Hi All. New to this site, already learned a lot as I am new to this tiling lark!
Planning new bathroom project and advice would be much appreciated, so far:
Tiles - Travertine light filled and honed 400 x 600 x 12mm
Adhesive - Stonefix standard set flexi white bagged
Grout - Stonefix flexi (beige)
Tile seal - Lithofin Stain Seal

Plastered walls are blown and poorly fitted floorboards - Remedial action planned:
1.Rip up floorboards and fix 25mm WBP ply to joists and use Schluter Ditra mat.
2.Strip walls back to brick/breezeblock and dryline with Gyproc moisture resistant plasterboard (using Gyproc Dryline adhesive), tank area around showerbath with BAL kit. Box section around back of toilet to hide side entry soil pipe.
3.End of bath butts up against airing cupboard which is currently water damaged tiled MDF (power shower is mounted on this). Planning to rip this section off, replace with 18mm WBP Ply which will be tanked.

The areas I need clarification on are:
1.What do I do about expansion joints? (I'm not planning to have skirting) I like the look of the Schluter systems for wall corners, wall/floor joints and around bath but finding it hard to source a supplier (and I expect that they are pretty expensive!)
2.Is it adequate to dryline with the dot and dab method (can't afford to add much thickness to walls due to tight aperture for bath) or would it be advisable to add some mechnical fixing as well?
3.Is it okay to tape joints in plasterboard with usual mesh tape before tanking?
4.Will it be okay to box the soil pipe in with plasterboard over timber frame and then tile?

Apologies for all the questions but want to get this right first time.
Regards Rich.

 

[Daz]

Hi Rich,

I'd say you are on the right track, and well done for checking you've got it right before commencing.

I don't like ply on bathroom walls whether tanked or not (especially when using a natural stone tile). So, I would suggest using 12mm cement boards or possibly Wedi board to form the wall, (these will be impervious to water, so won't need tanking either). With regards to the tanking, I would use either Durabase or Schluter Kerdi as opposed to a paint on system, as these can be tiled on immediately, and will perform better IMO.

Anyway to address your questions:

1. Is there a CTD local to you? Broken Link Removed
2. You should be okay if D&D'd properly but for the extra small amount of work, I would fix mechanically too.
3. That should be okay, although, if you choose to use Wedi, then you can get the proper Wedi joint tape too.
4. As long as you have a strong frame with plenty of noggins, so no flexing, it should be okay.

Good luck and don't forget to post some pics when you're done.

 

[richburgan]

Thanks Captain Slow.
1. Will check out CTD, thanks
2. How will I mechanically fix as well as Dot and Dab, use plugs and screws?
Was hoping to use tanked ply to aid fixing the shower to it, would cement board or Wedi board be suitable to attach this to?
Cheers
Rich

 

[Daz]

Thanks Captain Slow.
1. Will check out CTD, thanks
2. How will I mechanically fix as well as Dot and Dab, use plugs and screws?
Was hoping to use tanked ply to aid fixing the shower to it, would cement board or Wedi board be suitable to attach this to?
Cheers
Rich

2. Yes.

"would cement board or Wedi board be suitable to attach this to?" should be okay, but make sure you use the correct fixings - just have a chat with your supplier before purchasing.

 

[doug boardley]

you seem to have done a very thorough research Rich

 

[richburgan]

Thanks...hope the job doesn't take as long as the research! My brother will be doing the tiling but I'm beginning to wonder if the prep may be more work :mad2:

 

[grumpygrouter]

Thanks...hope the job doesn't take as long as the research! My brother will be doing the tiling but I'm beginning to wonder if the prep may be more work :mad2:

Yes probably, and more important!!!

 

[beanz]

Thanks...hope the job doesn't take as long as the research! My brother will be doing the tiling but I'm beginning to wonder if the prep may be more work :mad2:

It always is... I wish someone else could do the prep and i just did the finishing, life would be so much simpler! :smilewinkgrin:

 

[wetdec]

Hi

If you dont mechanical fix you will need 14 days dry time. Dab backs of boards with not too much thickness of adhesive and push back as tight to walls as poss, then mechanical fix. This will keep your depth down and give you more strength.

...

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[smurf21]

Allways remember te 6 Ps Proper,preperation,prevents P***,Poor, ,performance.
You are on the right track, tho i agree about the tile backer board rather than the ply.

 

[richburgan]

:smilewinkgrin: Thanks all for your advice. I have found a cheap supplier for Wedi Board so will use that to construct side of cupboard and bath panel.

Can you advise on best solution to mechanically fix boards after dot and dabbing...Washers, dowels, standard countersink screws and plugs? Maybe suggest a cheap supplier.

Cheers.
Rich.

 

[Time's Ran Out]

:smilewinkgrin: Thanks all for your advice. I have found a cheap supplier for Wedi Board so will use that to construct side of cupboard and bath panel.

Can you advise on best solution to mechanically fix boards after dot and dabbing...Washers, dowels, standard countersink screws and plugs? Maybe suggest a cheap supplier.

Cheers.
Rich.

Wedi do there own screws and WASHERS for fixing their boards - Your cheap supplier should have them or CTD.

Timeless John.

 

[richburgan]

Thanks John, won't need to use on Wedi board though... will have to be suitable for 12.5mm moisture resistant plasterboard. Would the Wedi dowels be suitable or is there a cheaper alternative? Rich.

 

[richburgan]

***bump***

 

[White Room]

Plasterboard when dot and dabbing needs a 10mm gap behind the boards to keep the strenght in the adhesive, if you push the board to make the adhesive to thin it will be no good and a chance of problems. If the walls are not in good condition more adhesive can be used to straighten the boards out so it can be tamped flat.