Newly drylined and skimmed bathroom

[pandabear]

It's my first post here so a big Hi to all of you!

I am looking for a little advice, we are about to start a bathroom install in a loft conversion which has been drylined. The external wall was dot and dabbed with the internals and ceiling screwed in place. The room has been skimmed over the past week.

So the question is, is there a recommended time after skimming that we should wait before tiling the walls? It is likely be at least two weeks after the skim before the bath and pan connector are in situ, are we able to start tiling immediately afterwards?

Your advice is most welcome!

Thanks in advance


PB

 

[Aston]

sorry, i have posted this vid before but if you fast forward to 3 mins 40 secs, then you can see the tecnique of using the straight edge....notice he is relaxed! not digging in and also notice, that the flooring rule is wider at the bottom than at the top!!! this helps. much better balance... i am sure refina sell these floor rules....anyway, once again, its not as difficult as people think, couple of days practice with a few damp bags of course sand and you'll nail the technique down in your sleep..

[video=youtube;HsaL2LVIbA4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HsaL2LVIbA4[/video]

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Ed is that me? I could not explain it better, even down to day joints. I was looking for this on you tube. a bit spooky watching that.

 

[Aston]

telepathy mr hobson ;0)

 

[widler]

ok mate, its not your fault, its so much harder writing it, if i was standing infront of you and showed you on a wall you'd say, arr i know that method...i'll do my best to explain now

step 1.
the dot... imagine you put a blob of say sand and cement on the top of a wall and then cut a piece of plasterboard or lathe about inch thick and say 3 inches long and bedded into the blob of sand and cement..

step 2
you do the exact same procedure at the bottom of the wall...you now would put your straight edge/level on the lathe/dot on the top of the wall and the lathe/dot ant the bottom of the wall and tap the level till it show plumb/level

you now have 2 dots embedded in sand and cement that are perfectly level/plumb in which to form a screed between.
so the dot system was origionally used to form level reference points. instead of forming screeds, they would place dabs of adhesive between the plumbed up dots that were proud/raised above the surface of the dots. they would then press the boards into the adhesive and the baords would touch the hardened dots and this was the guarantee that the boards where level.

now they used this system on long walls so they had to be sure that the work was bang on back then because surprislingly enought, thats how we used to work lol ;0)

once you had one end of the wall plumb, you could do the same at the other end..the wall could be 3 miles long because as long as you had both ends levels, you could extend a string line the whole length of the wall and place dots in between that where bang on...

phew, sorry for the lenght of this, i am getting knackered typing lol....this method is called dots...these dots are reference point to work to. you can form screeds for plastering between them, screeds for floor screeding (as gary said ;0)) or finally for forming the reference guides in which to ultra ensure a long long was was bang on using plasterboards....

:lol: ok ed,we obviously have got our wires crossed,sorry for making you write all that,you have just taught a fish to swim mate:smilewinkgrin:

 

[jwatson]

12 dabs???? where you pull that from? how can you quantify 12 dabs-my dabs may be bigger than yours ect. and as far as i know you can do 2 8x4 boards per 25kgbag
4 solid continues lines of dry wall adhesive on an 8x4 board(across the 4 foot side) with a continues bead at top and bottom to conform with fire regulations

They also recommend 1 bag of dry line adhesive for 1 8x4 board , fixed with 12 dabs and 12 screws hence the phrase dot and dab , dots Being screws and dabs being adhesive