Quartz tiles - final advice

[monkeyhanger]

Ok, i've been posting quite a bit on here to find out what I need to do, here's what I think I need to do, based on other threads which have given advice - any suggestions to steer me down the right path if i've misinterpreted anything before I buy all the gear?

I'm tiling Starlight Black Quartz from Tiles HQ: 300mm x 300mm x 10mm tiles in a shower recess - 3 walls at 800mm wide x 2100mm tall (above shower tray) and on a wall in the bathroom up to 1250mm tall, with a few cut outs for plumbing (Sink and Toilet).

I'm going to reboard the areas to tile with aquaboard, using the ceramic coated screws to fix it to my studs. 3mm gap between the boards, with Silicon up the gap and tape across the corners?

The advised tile adhesive is Mapei Keraquick. Would you advise to mix normally with water, or use latex plus as a substitute to the water?

If I use latex plus, will this significantly change the time the workable time and/or drying out time for the adhesive? If it does, how long should I leave fixed tiles before grouting?

Which size notched trowel would you use to apply adhesive to the aquaboard walls?

Butter the tiles with adhesive too?

Should the backs of the tiles need a clean (and left to dry) before fixing?

Use Ultracolour Anthracite to grout, or could this become patchy when wetted with the shower in use?

Grout gaps as small as possible on bevelled edge tiles - eg 2mm grouted spaces?

Silicon the vertical corners of the shower instead of grouting?

Using the 365drill 7 piece kit for my cut outs, and a new plasplugs diamond wheel cutter.

Thanks in advance for confirming or readvising on the above.

 

[wetdec]

Ok, i've been posting quite a bit on here to find out what I need to do, here's what I think I need to do, based on other threads which have given advice - any suggestions to steer me down the right path if i've misinterpreted anything before I buy all the gear?

I'm tiling Starlight Black Quartz from Tiles HQ: 300mm x 300mm x 10mm tiles in a shower recess - 3 walls at 800mm wide x 2100mm tall (above shower tray) and on a wall in the bathroom up to 1250mm tall, with a few cut outs for plumbing (Sink and Toilet).

I'm going to reboard the areas to tile with aquaboard, using the ceramic coated screws to fix it to my studs. 3mm gap between the boards, with Silicon up the gap and tape across the corners?

The advised tile adhesive is Mapei Keraquick. Would you advise to mix normally with water, or use latex plus as a substitute to the water? Can do won't hurt

If I use latex plus, will this significantly change the time the workable time and/or drying out time for the adhesive? If it does, how long should I leave fixed tiles before grouting? The drying time will take a little longer as you are working with a non absorb tile and a waterresistant background. This isnt to say they will not go hard in a short time just the drying out would be best left a while longer

Which size notched trowel would you use to apply adhesive to the aquaboard walls? 8mm be fine imo

Butter the tiles with adhesive too?

Should the backs of the tiles need a clean (and left to dry) before fixing? wipe with a damp cloth to get rid of any dust

Use Ultracolour Anthracite to grout, or could this become patchy when wetted with the shower in use? the grout is pretty good when wet, I am pretty sure these tiles benefit from sealing tho I know the lighter colours we have done state that

Grout gaps as small as possible on bevelled edge tiles - eg 2mm grouted spaces?

Silicon the vertical corners of the shower instead of grouting? do both grout then Silicon to make the appearence a good one

Using the 365drill 7 piece kit for my cut outs, and a new plasplugs diamond wheel cutter.

Thanks in advance for confirming or readvising on the above.

Think you got it nailed m8 but sure someone will have some further help.

Should look pucka............

,

 

[david campbell]

an 8mm trowel and back butter the tiles,clean of any excess dust from tile sbut there shouldn't really be any,and take your time cutting them as you don't want to burn out the wet saw with these tough tiles!
look forward to seeing the finished job

i don't think there is any need for latex unless there is slight movement and keraquick should be ready to grout in a 3/4 hours,mix small amounts until you know how much adhesive you will use without it starting to set in the bucket

 

[monkeyhanger]

OK, so I have good spreading advice, cutting advice, but the latex issue - to add or not to add?

Wetdec said it wouldn't do any harm to add, but is it strongly adviseable to add the latex for this type of tile? Will it help or hinder good adhesion or is the extra flexibility in the cement bed the advantage?

As these are heavy tiles, should I only do a few rows from the bottom and then let them set a day to get a good foundation (so as not to have the weight of all those tiles bearing down ono the shower tray) before tiling up to the top, or will it be fine to do it all in 1 go?

If I get a new cutter, should I change the stock blade for a Rubi/Marchrist?

Like the rabbits Dave, we have a mini-lop running around in our house.

 

[doug boardley]

pretty much what Wetdecs says, no need for latex imo, and no grout in corners just Silicon (imo)

 

[monkeyhanger]

Doug: No latex? That's saved about £55, so the adhesive is flexible enough on it's own? Ok then.

What about only tiling a few rows high on day 1, would you do that (I know as a professional, you want to get the job done well ASAP, butI have other stuff to get on with besides tiling, so it wouldn't be a bother), to save all the weight of the tiles being transferred down to the bottom ones, or am I being super cautious here?

 

[macten]

Doug: No latex? That's saved about £55, so the adhesive is flexible enough on it's own? Ok then.

What about only tiling a few rows high on day 1, would you do that (I know as a professional, you want to get the job done well ASAP, butI have other stuff to get on with besides tiling, so it wouldn't be a bother), to save all the weight of the tiles being transferred down to the bottom ones, or am I being super cautious here?

Up to you really as waiting a day wouldn't do any harm. Personally I would use solid plastic spaces that will resist crushing under the weight and just go for it.

 

[doug boardley]

Doug: No latex? That's saved about £55, so the adhesive is flexible enough on it's own? Ok then.

What about only tiling a few rows high on day 1, would you do that (I know as a professional, you want to get the job done well ASAP, butI have other stuff to get on with besides tiling, so it wouldn't be a bother), to save all the weight of the tiles being transferred down to the bottom ones, or am I being super cautious here?

make sure you have plenty of noggins in your studwork tho' to minimise movement. Keraquick is an S1 type addy, the latex bumps it up to an S2 type.

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

All been said above, I would be temted to spend the £55 but not essential. Imo 2mm joints are a tad tight I would go for 3mm. Good luck mate

 

[wetdec]

Sorry missed it earlier would agree with the spacer size 2mm leaves little for adjustment should you need it.................
,

 

[tfs]

I would think about using kerapoxy design and mapiglitter, this is available in anthracite. You wont need to worry about the grout getting pathy when wet with this stuff and it gives a good finnish against the tile.

 

[Stephen@Weber]

I've got a feeling that latex is recommended because water can affect some quartz tiles, not sure where i got this information, I think it was from a guy who used to work for BAL.

I will check it out, might have some info somewhere.

 

[monkeyhanger]

A lot of advice there overnight - thanks everyone. I will definitely be adding some more noggins to the studwork around the shower cubicle when I pull the old boards off, better to slightly over-engineer for a tenners worth of timber.

3mm spacers it is then!

I found the guard for my Plasplugs DWW100, so I'll just treat it to a new blade. It coped with cutting my Porcelain floor tiles in the kitchen ok.

Still a tad confused about the latex issue though - does it really aid adhesion or water resistivity (they're supposed to be impervious <0.02% porosity) for these type of tiles, or is it just the extra flex (which most of you think is a bit overkill)? When I put a few extra noggins in, this should pretty much eliminate wall flex anyway. If it's all about flexibility or water resistivity and not about adhesion, maybe just latex up the adhesive for the shower cubicle, and not the general bathroom walls that will go behind a toilet and sink?

Still thinking about the glitter grout, not sure whether thats too much sparkle (if it's not a good match to the sparkle of the tiles) or whether it'll make each wall look like 1 whole piece rather than a series of tiles (good)

 

[david campbell]

would leave the expense of using latex if you are going overkill with the noggins
if you are worried about staining the tile then why not seal the faces before laying

 

[monkeyhanger]

So i'm ready to place my order:-

Tiles

Keraquick adhesive

Grout: Not sure about the kerapoxy with glitter, might just go with the normal ultracolour, if it sparkles different to the tiles, i'd probably leave it out.

Aquaboard

ceramic tipped screws for the aquaboard

edge tape for between the boards - any specific suggestions, or is it pretty standard stuff. Is it the fibreglass mesh stuff? any preferred makes/types?

Silicon for between the aquaboard joints and in tiled corners of the shower cubicle.

Already ordered my 365drills kit (the 7 piece kit)

Found the guard for my Plasplugs DWW100, so it's ready to go, want a new blade - preferences on blade for cutting quartz tiles cleanly?