Discuss Question :After drilling, fitting wall plugs in the British & UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

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TilingLogistics

I drill the initial hole to the size required then drill just the tile a mm or two bigger. This allows the plug to pass through and all the pressure of the expanding plug is exerted in the wall itself so there is no chance of any pressure on the tile for it to crack. Another option is I always try to get the client to use the grout lines if possible for mounting of bathroom furniture wherever possible:thumbsup:

Kev
 
I

Impossible

Speedy reply!

In my DIY mind, I assumed drilling into grout lines were a no no! Is this due to the fact that grout is softer than tiles to drill?

I have a set of 365's drills and the current tiles I am fitting get sliced though easy.

Im putting a shower head rail today and I was going to drill into the center of the the tile (off setting it from the bath center) becasue I thought the grout lines would be fragile....

Thanks for the wall plug info, makes more sence to get the thing to bite into the wall only.

Imp
 
D

Deleted member 1779

Porcelains are tough as old boots so unlikely to crack even if a screw was over-tightened. Ceramics on the other hand are more prone to cracking if fixings are over torqued. My preference (and its just a personal preference) is to overbore holes at 8mm on porcelains then push the rawl plug beyond the tile into the substrate. I let that take the weight of the fixing rather than the tiled area.

9a.jpg


But I am not sure what would be the worse force at play. Is it the downward force of say a fully loaded bathroom cabinet resting on a plug that would pull down on a tile. Or is it the over tightening of a screw?

Dsc07748.jpg


What I do try to do on both ceramics or porcelains is:

1) dont over tighten screws.
2) The plastic rawl plugs I use tend to break up if screws are over done anyway
3) I dont think any real harm can come with weights of things on a tile. Most loads are spread over a few screws (even robe hooks have two screw holes)
4) As a matter of course I tend to push the plug beyond the tile so that the screw hangs in free space out of habit.
Dsc07750.jpg


5) that using 365drills (rather than a spade drill) to bore a hole into any tile causes a the hole to become a cylinder (not a cone) so the hole is actually very strong and unlikely to chip out or break up. Even the backs dont blow out.

Dsc07755.jpg


So the result is that the hole is as strong as it can be. You can see evidence of the strength of the sides of the holes in the pic above by looking at the larger holes.

So there you have it. I use diamond drill bits to form perfect little cylinders in all tiles. Then push plugs beyond the tile so the weight of the article hangs in the air and I dont over tighten screws.
 
D

Deleted member 1779

Haha good point..! yes well here is the thing.....

Our diamond core drills WILL in fact go through things like wood, brick, plaster even metal but its not supposed to do that. Its not engineered and designed for efficient use on other materials.

Dont get me wrong. Its not that they CANT do it, but they are just not the best at it. Other drills do a better job in wood, metal and brick.

Take for instance this 100mm plug below. YES we used the diamond core and drilled into the wood. And it worked. But it would have been much smarter (and quicker) to use a holesaw for wood.

Dsc08148.jpg


So if its the case that you do change over to the correct type of drill bits then you are doing the smart thing. But in an emergency, or if you have finished the job, unlikely to use the bit again and are not bothered then go ahead and use them.


Our advice is only to use them on hard materials.
 
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