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D

daz825

hi,
im new to tiling, have been doing it for the last few months and theres a few questions that have arisen. i would be really gratefull if anyone could help.

#ive only tiled floors on 2 different surfices, concrete and 12mm ply, every time ive come accross another type of timber floor ive put a 12mm ply board down and i know this is the right way to go about things but i dont know why? why can't i tile onto floorboards if the adhesive will take to it? are there any other types of floor that i can tile onto? chipboard ext? and what would happen if i did just tile streight over floorboards? (im not going to, but i would like to know) do i still need to put ply down if im also fixing those undertile heat saving boards? (raises floor even more) and why 12mm?
#what happens if i add a bit more water to my already mixed adhesive and mix it again? will it take? the sticky finger test would suggest so.
#to fix porcailin to concrete ive been using a flexable adhesive, but is this nessicary? i know the back of porcailain does not absorb the same as ceramic and you need a stronger stick but non flex is half the price.?
#what are caustic tiles? and what special requirements do they require (sealing ect) turned down a very nice job because i didnt know enough about this!
#is there a difference between wall & floor grout? what are the differences between wide joint and non wide joint? to me it all just seems like grout!

i know there are a lot of questions here and id be really grateful if anyone could help me out here.

thanks.
 
W

wivers

Floorboards are not always flat enough to tile direct on to, thats one of the reasons for overlaying wiv ply.

If yer using a backerboard you dont need to ply first.

Chipboard is a funny one. Some say that green chipboard thats used in new builds etc is fine to go on wiv a flexi adhesive. Some say that going onto normal chipboard is okay if you use a 2 part flexi (powder and liquid), but personally i overlay chipboard all the time just to be safe. If its flat and well screwed down then you can just lay athin ply (6mm) or other board across it just to give the adhesive a better surfice to grab to.

Adding more water to your going off bucket of adhesive will lessen the quality of the muck and the sticking properties, and i was told once that it can cause the stuff to creak when its dry? don't know if thats true or not.

Using a flexi is advised by the adhesive manufactor as it is more stcky that non flex which helps it grab the porcelain better. Ths was told to me by a Bal techinical support assistant ages ago. At Topps you can buy an adhesive made for porcelain, its cheaper than flexi but still more than normal rapid set.

Floor Grout and wall grout. Wall grout normally has a smoother, creamier look/feel and is easier to spread. Floor grout is normally wide joint and is very grity like sand. Its a pain in the arse sometimes as it dry's out quicker and don't spread as well. Its the grityness in it that allows it to be used on wider joints.

I hope all this correct coz i am the forum gimp, but i'm sure i will be corrected by all the Tefal Head's lol.
 
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questions from new tiler
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Which tile adhesive brand did you use most this year?

  • Palace

    Votes: 9 6.0%
  • Kerakoll

    Votes: 14 9.3%
  • Ardex

    Votes: 11 7.3%
  • Mapei

    Votes: 44 29.3%
  • Ultra Tile

    Votes: 17 11.3%
  • BAL

    Votes: 36 24.0%
  • Wedi

    Votes: 3 2.0%
  • Benfer

    Votes: 2 1.3%
  • Tilemaster

    Votes: 21 14.0%
  • Weber

    Votes: 18 12.0%
  • Other (any other brand not listed)

    Votes: 16 10.7%
  • Nicobond

    Votes: 7 4.7%
  • Norcros

    Votes: 3 2.0%
  • Kelmore

    Votes: 4 2.7%

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