Removing old mildew ridden plasterboard

[je72]

Hello all, this is my 1st post!

I'm a fairly inexperienced handyman, mainly because I've always lived in new builds and moved before any serious maintenance required doing. But I am looking after a house for my friends who are abroad. they have a 3 storey town house (newish build) with a shower on the 3rd floor. To cut a long story short the shower was leaking and as it was lined with plasterboard it had become plasetered with mildew (can you get ill breathing that stuff in btw?) I've removed the old tiles, 1/3 of it fell off after I removed the enclosure, 1/3 needed a gentle tap and the last 3rd needed sever brute force!

I now want to reline the walls so that this problem does not happen again, I am planning to use aquaboard or something similar. My question is, the plasterboard that is damaged the most is glued (dot & dabbed) directly to the concrete wall. How do I get this off with the minimum amount of fuss? Also what is the best way to "join" the new aquaboard to the plasterboard?

On the other wall (corner shower) the plasterboard is pinned to partition wall, and despite my best efforts following the guidline on here, I've still ended up with some sizeable holes, would it be best to chop that out also or just to board over it? I have a feeling it will be the 1st more diffficult method, but would appreciate any advce.


Cheers :smilewinkgrin:

J

 

[Rob Z]

Hi J

I'm not very familiar with the construction practices in the UK, so I can't say much about your project, but I would recommend that you wear a respirator that is designed for filtering mold while you do the tear out. Mold is a huge problem here in the US, and I frequently read in my trade magazines about construction workers getting sick from exposure to mold.

 

[White Room]

Take off the damp/damaged plasterboard and put into polythene bags, as Rob advised, wear a mask. Hammer and bolster to remove the adhesive from the walls. Where you remove the plasterboard from the stud work and walls make sure that is dry before fixing anything to them. I would fix plasterboard, including dot and dab then tank it.

 

[je72]

hi whitebeam, thanks for your response. So good old brute force for removing the mouldy plasterboard :mad2:. I know this probably would be obvious for anyone 1/2 competant, should I just cut the plaster board with a stanley knife? Or is there a better way?

Also I've read soooo many posts about not using PB and considering the state its all in at the moment I really didn't want to go down that route again. It seems that the aquaboard is a not that much dearer than PB itself, is there a special reason why you would recomend PB?

Cheers J

 

[White Room]

Dry linning is something I do anyway so thats a why I went the pb route. If you dot and dab the aqua board to the block/concrete wall use singl part flexible adhesive then when the addy has set put machanical fixings thru the board where the addy is on the wall, plug and fix, or use some wood battens, fix to the wall then screw the aquepanel to that. Screw the aqua board into the stud work, use some plasterers scrim on the joints and wipe some cement addy into the joints.