Should i use Aquapanel in this case?

[images]

Hi all, about to get round to introducing myself in the new members area and would really appreciate your advice on a tiling query.
I've ripped up the lino in the upstairs bathroom with intention of laying stone mosaic tiles. The floor is chipboard (very secure, well sealed, no movement) and although initially i was going to tile on top of it i thankfully found this forum first and dropped that idea sharpish!
The plan now is to PVA the chipboard, affix (screw & adhesive) Aquapanel Thermal then use Unibond 'Tiling on Wooden floors' (bought prior to the laying of Aquapanel decision) to affix and grout the tiles. I've a couple of questions though:
1) Although not laying underfloor heating i went for the Aquapanel Thermal instead of 6mm Hardibacker as the bathroom is quite small and the main flooring area sits above the downstairs boiler which currently keeps the floor v warm - would Aquapanel Thermal be the correct choice in this case? Also a factor is the thermal is 4 mm thinner than the regular panel - not much but as there will already be a slight increase in floor height i'd like to minimize it as much as poss.
2) Is it necessary to PVA the floor prior to affixing the Aquapanel?
3) Is Unibond tiling on wooden floors suitable for use on Aquapanel - i've scoured the literature on both and can't find anything specific - Wickes say yes, B&Q was unsure but said it should be fine.
Thanks much, all replies and comments gratefully received.

 

[beanz]

I don't have the experience to snawer all of your questions, but here are a few thoughts... Mentioning PVA on this forum will get you flogged! It has no use in tiling what so ever, and wouldn't be doing anything on the chipboard in any case imho!?!
You'll need a cement based flexible adhesive, and grout (seperate grout and addy), for fixing natural stone tiles. Possibly Mosaic fix, but not 100% sure if you can use that on floors so someone will hopefully confirm or deny this.

Hopefully someone else will be able to answer your questions on the boiler and Aquapanel.

 

[malcolml]

never p v a(check the listing p v a verus primer), are your stone mosaic natural? if so a white flexible adhesive and flexible grout is required. and a sealer for the mosaic.
i've never used aqua panel so can't comment but wuold suggest glue and screw board to floor firstly.

 

[hps1]

hi there, also new to this site. from my experiences with these products (please tell me if im wrong) but i would use aquapanel cement board on walls and thermalboard on the floors. however...i thought the idea of these thermal boards was to reflect the heat therefore reducing heatloss through the floor resulting in the tiles hating up more efficiently. so this would mean the heat from your boiler cupboard wouldnt even make it to the tiles. aquapanel is normally 12.5mm, and you can get 6 or 10mm in the thermal board. and if you only screw it down (no addy) then that'll save you some height but remember you need the ceramic screws with the big washers otherwise they will pop.

hope this helps

 

[atec]

hi. i wouldent use chipboard, i would replace it with plyboard and prime on the underside and sides, dont need to prime the top. then use a coupling membrane ontop (schluter). then tile natural stone on top of this. as explained previously use white Flexi cement based ady and grout. You could also put backer board between the wood and membrane.

 

[White Room]

I would use ply screwed, As there mosaic would stick directly to the ply

 

[doug boardley]

wouldn't use the unibond addy,go for a bal, mapei, ultra, powdered flexible adhesive

 

[Daz]

Personally.....First check the floor for "bounce". Provided it is as sound as you say, then I would either glue and screw 6mm cement boards or min 12mm ply (remember to fix at 90 degrees to the chipboard). Prime the floor then fix the mosaics with a flexible cement based adhesive (take the Unibond back to Homebase or wherever you got it for a refund). Grout with a flexible grout.

Points to consider....
1. You don't mention what type of stone the mosaics are, but I assume travertine, so remember that they will need sealing after grouting and possibly 1 coat prior.
2. Work clean, as the adhesive will mark and stain stone.
3. You will probably need a wet cutter to make your cuts.

Good luck :santa_cheesy:.

 

[beanz]

Personally.....First check the floor for "bounce". Provided it is as sound as you say, then I would either glue and screw 6mm cement boards or min 12mm ply (remember to fix at 90 degrees to the chipboard). Prime the floor then fix the mosaics with a flexible cement based adhesive (take the Unibond back to Homebase or wherever you got it for a refund). Grout with a flexible grout.

Read the directions on the bag of adhesive, before screwing the play down (if you go down that route), as some will want the ply primed on back and sides.

 

[images]

Thanks for the advice guys, the tiles are listed as stone mosaic, unglazed and matt (they're grey and all ready mix stuff (aside from unibond) have colour discrepancies from the look i'm after. I've taken back the Unibond stuff as advised so have an updated workflow beginning with affixing cement boards (chosen over ply due to floor height), prime then fix the tiles (any specific product recommendations for these 2 steps?) then grout. Lastly any ideas who stocks BAL as no luck as the 'big' DIY stores.
By the way when i went back to B&Q they still said if the chipboard floor was as stable as i say then i could tile directly onto it as the space was so small (33 square ft).........?
Thanks again!

 

[Daz]

Where are you geographically? Do you have a local CTD (you can check store locations from their website broken link removed)

 

[doug boardley]

Read the directions on the bag of adhesive, before screwing the play down (if you go down that route), as some will want the ply primed on back and sides.

i prime back and sides regardless on ply as it is actually sealing these against moisture ingress

 

[beanz]

i prime back and sides regardless on ply as it is actually sealing these against moisture ingress

Good point. Do you tend to prime the face too, regardless of instructions, to be on the safe side? I'm thinking that's probably a good idea, even though it may cost a little more..

 

[doug boardley]

Good point. Do you tend to prime the face too, regardless of instructions, to be on the safe side? I'm thinking that's probably a good idea, even though it may cost a little more..

no beanz, not until I know which brand of addy I'm using,you can always put it on,not as easy stripping it off! some brands recommend not to prime face so i assume their boffins know more than me lol

 

[beanz]

lol fair enough.