so far so good,but what would you suggest to fix this little problem??????

[kruger]

hello again.
going quite well,plumber as done all the first fix,now waiting to tile the room,looking at the picture what would you guys fix this problem.tray is about 30mm away from wall at the non shower end.got a few possibles but not 100%need some expert help.

 

[enduro]

Screw some timber battens to the wall then screw backer board to the battens.

 

[DHTiling]

What is on that wall..?. any windows/openings etc.?

 

[DHTiling]

And why hasn't he fitted a tray to suit..?

 

[Rich]

Could you not have had a shower tray to fit?

If not then the wall will have to be built out as enduro says.

 

[kruger]

the width was 1630mm so the nearest tray was 1600mm,hence the gap.theres no windows on the wall just a towel rail.

 

[DHTiling]

D&D PB to build out flat.

 

[Rich]

Think enduro has hit it on the head then, build the wall out using cement boards or tanked plasterboard just the depth of the shower tray.

 

[kruger]

thanks dave thats what the plumber said but he also said it might take a few boards on top of each other?

 

[Rich]

What tiles are you putting up? I would use batten, that way you can screw the boards back.

 

[kruger]

another questions from the millions i have going round my head.floor. got tongue/groove floor in bathroom,from here would you recommend over boarding with hardie backer then spf addy or straight on with some 2 part addy

 

[kruger]

putting up 300mm x 450mm ceramic in a stack form.

 

[Rich]

T&G chipboard do you mean?

In that case you dont want to tile straight onto it, it needs to be screwed down to death to make it 100% deflection free and then over boarded with a cement backer board like Hardie backer or no more ply. Make sure you follow the installation instructions of the boards, they need to be glued and screwed down. This should give you a suitable floor to tile

 

[Mike]

T&G chipboard do you mean?
In that case you dont want to tile straight onto it, it needs to be screwed down to death to make it 100% deflection free and then over boarded with a cement backer board like Hardie backer or no more ply. Make sure you follow the installation instructions of the boards, they need to be glued and screwed down. This should give you a suitable floor to tile

be careful if youre screwing down the boards blind, the pipes/cables may be in the (notched) joist. it's easy to go through a pipe, not that i've ever done it :lol::lol::lol:

 

[DHTiling]

thanks dave thats what the plumber said but he also said it might take a few boards on top of each other?

12.5mm PB and 17.5mm D&D adhesive.. will be fine imo..

 

[kruger]

thanks mike.
Had a good idea were the pipes were as now everything is down one side.on the bits i could not see i fixed boards down near the fixings already down (nails!).going to have a go at dob and dab some plasterboard

 

[kruger]

after a bit of fun getting the boards into the bathroom,not a bad result.ran the boards past the tray a little bit,just seemed to make a tighter finish when the tiles go on.:hurray:
now to learn myself how to tank the area with mapei's kit.any hints would be very
helpfull.

 

[Mike]

could you not have boarded the entire wall to avoid that nasty little step. the tanking kits are fairly straight forward to use but the kits do vary in contents and application. which one do you have?

 

[DHTiling]

Looks like you used 9mm boards

 

[Mike]

Looks like you used 9mm boards

you must have good eyesight dave:lol::lol:

 

[kruger]

double boarded it up.its looking ok.so far so good:hurray:

 

[Deleted member 1779]

Something you might consider is using the space.

Rest your shampoo bottles on some glass shelves. Or make some niches

 

[Dan]

Just bumping some of the older popular (sometimes not so popular) threads. Probably wont be current discussion these days but I just need to do it. So just ignore the thread if it's not current for you.