Discuss Student Bathroom in the Bathroom Tiling Advice area at TilersForums.com.

F

foxy0-0

Hi all,

I am fitting a new bathroom suite and 800mm shower quadrant.

I have tried to read as many posts as possible and research prices prior to this thread. However, I would appreciate some advice on the correct way to go!

I have purchased a new shower quadrant(Aqualux and tray) and a modern toilet and basin, the exiting electric shower does not need to be moved.

The house was built c. 1920's and the bathroom has the old plastered walls and half tiling above the bath and sink. I am renting the house out to 5 students and I am expecting serious use of the bathroom.

I have taken my plumber to the site and he suggested that I tile over the existing tiles to create the shower background where it meets the enclosure, i.e. the corner walls. I do feel that this would not be a long term solution. I would like to tile the whole bathroom as it is only small, approximately 3.0m long x 2.25m wide.

I have researched marmox boards and 'Multi Panel' but realised that the substrate i.e. the tiles and plaster will need to be removed prior to fixing and I suspect that the plaster has been applied to some form of brick or blockwork as used many years ago? This is only guesswork.

I would appreciate advice on the correct sequence of tasks to do the job properly.

Please note this is an upstairs bathroom and I would like to tile the floor if possible which consists of the old tongue and grooved floorboards.

Many thanks in anticipation.:smilewinkgrin: Foxy0-0
 
Last edited by a moderator:
J

James Spelrem

is the old lat and plaster sound? has there been any buckeling any signs of water damage on the walls? the shiplap floors I would use 1/2 inch plywood screwed down every 4" then detramat depending on how much movement in the floor if its rotten you have to start from ground zero pull out the rot.for tile every thing has to be stuctually sound. pull any thing loose on the walls repair with mapei ultra contact or simular product cover the walls with ditramat instead of kerdi this will allow upto 7%movement and is water proof use kerdi in the corners. I did a marbel job about 7 years ago simular situation looks and works just as good as the day I put it in.
 
B

basshunter

Hi foxy,
replacing the walls with cement board could be a wise move...if not ,make sure you tank the walls +check the tray is rock solid too
Use of premium materials installed to manufacturers specifications will also help with the epic onslaught that is five students:yikes:
Efficient ventilation/airchange can aslo prolong the life of an installation(imo) :builder2:
 
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