Tiling adjoining rooms - mortar in kitchen room raises height

[Tryst]

Hi all

we are about to start tiling adjoining rooms, the kitchen and dining room. We have taken down the wall that separated these rooms so the rooms now effectively are one. We have ripped up the wooden flooring that was down in the dining room and the tiles that was down in the kitchen. However, the mortar that was under he kitchen tiles means that the floors between the two rooms are now not level. The mortar in the kitchen adds a few millimetres of height.

what is the best way to get around this so we have a level floor across both rooms for the tiling? Do we now have to get the mortar up which is in the kitchen (this seems it will be a very difficult job)? Or do lay more mortar down on the dining room side when starting the tiling laying to bring that room level with the kitchen?

thanks in advance

 

[DHTiling]

Can you post a pic of what you have please..?

 

[Martyn Leeds]

Concrete both sides? As above, pic's will help. Who's doing the tiling? the builder, tiler, or DIY?

 

[Tryst]

Hi, you can see the separation between the kitchen and dining room by the yellow pipe that has been dug in. The mortar (grey) is on the left which is the kitchen. You can see that we have tried to chip away the mortar already. On the dining room side I think we are down to the lowest possible part/area and that is concrete.

my wife's dad will be doing the tiling as he has some experience of doing it himself previously.

let me know if you need any more information

 

[DHTiling]

I would slurry prime and SLC that.... but another question... where the gas pipe is, was that a brick wall and is the dpm on show.?

 

[Tryst]

Thanks for he reply, Dave. I have a look up Ron slurry prime and SLC.

The pipe on the floor is a new pipe that we have installed recently. It is not connected up to the main gas supply yet though. The wall that was there though was a plasterboard wall.

 

[DHTiling]

Ok , so the slab is all one....

Ok.. SLC ( Self leveling compound) and the slurry is to bond over some residue you have on the floor... you can use Mapei eco-prim grip for that..

 

[Tryst]

Thanks, Dave

talking to the wife and she says we'll likely wont have time to to put any self levelling compound down as we have a tight schedule between the Electrician arriving tomorrow and the kitchen arriving next weekend.

Its looking like a long night with the chisel and hammer...neighbours permitting

are there tools I can hire from B&Q?

 

[Martyn Leeds]

Floor could be prepped and SLC'd in an hour or two. Most are rapid & can be walked on in approx 3hrs

 

[DHTiling]

The SLC is there to prep the floor flat for tiling... if not then the father inlaw would probs be spot fixing... which is a NO NO...

Tilemaster SLC can be tiled on after 3 hrs..

 

[Tryst]

Hi, thanks for the replies both. Sorry about the late replies I was posting between working in the kitchen.

when you say spot fixing, what is that/does it involve? If we did manage to eventually bring up all the mortar, would the no no spot fixing still be required?

Below is a screenshot of where we got to today with the chisel and hammer.

.

 

[DHTiling]

Not saying he would spot fix but if the floor is not flat or he is mainly diy.. some think it is ok to 5 spot the back of the tiles and bed in...

 

[Tryst]

Thanks for raising the 5-spot method. Never knew what it was but just read up about it I'm relative,y green in terms of DIY as you can probably guess

if we did manage to get the all the mortar up by Friday and e kitchen side is quite level/flat, would you say there would then be no need for the SLC?

 

[DHTiling]

As long as it is flat then ye no probs .. if the dips/bumps are no more than 3mm over a 2mtr straight edge then ok...

 

[Tryst]

Thanks for your help today. It's been much appreciated.

i'll provide some updates as we are going on in the week...and hopefully ultimately a photo of the final kitchen /dining room

good night