Tiling on lath and plaster walls

[robbieee]

Hi everyone!

First post so be gentle....

I am doing up my bathroom for as cheap as possible so i am doing myself.

The problem is that i want to tile the full room from floor to ceiling with 600x300 tiles (travertine effect ceramic probably).....But 2 of the walls are lath and plaster (skimmed). I am just taking the cautious assumption that these walls won't be able to hold the weight of the tiles. I have read that you should take the plaster back and attach plasterboard (dot and dab). But if i do that, the wall will come out further than the door frame. Is there anyway to avoid ripping the full plaster down and having a wall solid enough to hold the weight?

The walls look in decent enough condition...

Any advice would be much appreciated on how to overcome this problem. Or am i being over cautious?

 

[mattle40]

IMO I would take it back to brick and board it.
just make it work when it comes to the door frame, there is always a way but without seeing your situation I can't help there
But again, this is just my opinion but its not worth the risk, and I'm sure the walls aren't very flat either

 

[Ajax123]

The lath and plaster walls will be stud work and so will not be suitable for dot and dab. The plasterboard should be screwed to the studs. This will mean it will not protrude further forward than the door frame. Don't skim the walls as this reduces the weight bearing capacity.

 

[jimthetiler]

No tiler I know would ever attempt to tile over lath and plaster.Get the missus and kids to help you strip the walls if you need to keep the cost down.

 

[AliGage]

If the plasterboard does come out further than the frame then pin some 1" pse molding to the frame and finish with a rub down and gloss.

 

[bugs183]

Just replace it, it will have been there for bloomin years so if it is intact then fair do's to it its done its job, but more likely it will crumble if you have to reset a tile.
It certain isn't suitable for stone.
And then as ali says if it protrudes just pin a new moulding too it.

 

[robbieee]

Thanks for everyone's input, very helpful!

So if i strip out the wooden laths (and plaster first of course), then attach plasterboard to the studs- what sort of weight with this then be able to hold? (will it then support the 60x30 tiles i want?)

Also- would you advise to get the walls skimmed as the walls won't necessarily be square/level for putting the tiles on?

 

[Rizzle from the Portizzle]

well in the old days you would drill holes at the top every 150mm put a small hose throught the holes atached to a funnel then you would mix unibond with 70% water and pour in then you would go down half way drill holes again and repeat leave three days to dry with the lime plaster and hores hair and lathes it would harden like concarete give wack with hammer to test its strengh then tile

 

[Ajax123]

well in the old days you would drill holes at the top every 150mm put a small hose throught the holes atached to a funnel then you would mix unibond with 70% water and pour in then you would go down half way drill holes again and repeat leave three days to dry with the lime plaster and hores hair and lathes it would harden like concarete give wack with hammer to test its strengh then tile

Please no jokes about hores and their hair

 

[robbieee]

Also would i use the moisture resistant gyproc?

 

[White Room]

well in the old days you would drill holes at the top every 150mm put a small hose throught the holes atached to a funnel then you would mix unibond with 70% water and pour in then you would go down half way drill holes again and repeat leave three days to dry with the lime plaster and hores hair and lathes it would harden like concarete give wack with hammer to test its strengh then tile

what!!!!!

 

[AliGage]

I thought that whitebeam but didn't want to ask forward explanation.

To the op. Is this over bath. Shower or wetroom. What work are you doing exactly?

 

[robbieee]

Its my full bathroom, tiling the full room (floor to ceiling). In the bathroom, I will be replacing the electric shower (not a stand alone shower but one thats part of the bath), toilet, actual bath and also the basin.
Also installing a towel radiator.

The walls are 20m2 and the floor is roughly 5m2

 

[robbieee]

Anyone help?

So if i strip out the wooden laths (and plaster first of course), then attach plasterboard to the studs- what sort of weight with this then be able to hold? (will it then support the 60x30 tiles i want?)

Also- would you advise to get the walls skimmed as the walls won't necessarily be square/level for putting the tiles on?

Also would i use the moisture resistant gyproc?

 

[Time's Ran Out]

You'll get 32kg per metre on plasterboard which will be ok for 600x300 which could be 23/25kg. + adhesive and grout. DON'T get them skimmed! Moisture resistant plasterboard would be ok, but cement boards or waterproof Wedi would be better but more expensive.
Good luck.

 

[ian158]

Anyone help?

So if i strip out the wooden laths (and plaster first of course), then attach plasterboard to the studs- what sort of weight with this then be able to hold? (will it then support the 60x30 tiles i want?)

Also- would you advise to get the walls skimmed as the walls won't necessarily be square/level for putting the tiles on?

Also would i use the moisture resistant gyproc?

With old properties the stud wall timber might not be the same size..and a little twisted as the lathes and plaster wwere'nt always nice and flat, more of a wave to it..if your using 600x300 then the new board will need to be nice and flat..run a long straight edge horizontally to the vertical studs to see how far if any, are out, you may need to pack them out..get the substrate sorted first, this will make laying the tiles a breeze..unless they're are bowed !

 

[robbieee]

Well i started hammering out the plaster and something just didnt feel right. Something was worrying me. I wanted to check there is zero possibility of asbestos in the plaster, as my house was built circa 1935.

So i have sent abit of the plaster away for testing. Once i get it back (hopefully clear), I can continue taking the lath and plaster completely out. The studs looks solid anyway.

 

[robbieee]

Yep i know about not getting it skimmed as the weight capacity drops to 20kg/m2

Thanks for everyone's input.