Tiling to the top (underside) of a window alcove

[Realstokebloke]

Post fitting a new Uvpc window I have to patch in and around the alcove where our less than deft fitters shed tiles a plenty.

1. At the top (in the alcove on the underside if you will) is there a requirement to wedge the tiles while the adhesive goes off or will they hold?

i have either some BAL single part flexible or some Unibond rapid set flexible left over from an en suite i did recently, and the Unibond is rapid set which might be better?

2. Also, where the tiles have popped off (I think they were 'adhered' by blue tack or chewing gum by the builder originally), I have scrapped back all the loose stuff and now just have plasterboard again.

do I need to prime that at all with these. I've forgotten tbh.

Thanks.

 

[Andy Allen]

the tiles on the under side of the cill will hold by themselves providing there not to heavy...ie stone or large pors, I prefer to spread the adhesive on the surface and the tile to give a good bond. bal spf would be fine......prime using acrylic based primer NOT pva....

 

[Sean SML Tiling]

Clearly not a tiler and doing wet rooms. Shocking!

 

[Realstokebloke]

the tiles on the under side of the cill will hold by themselves providing there not to heavy...ie stone or large pors, I prefer to spread the adhesive on the surface and the tile to give a good bond. bal spf would be fine......prime using acrylic based primer NOT pva....

cheers Andy.

no, comparative tiddler ceramics so should be fine.

OK with the primer, it clearly wasn't done before.

do I need to score the plasterboard also for grip?

i might struggle with the BAL I have left (although, I have found it to be excellent) so is the Unibond one an absolute no, no in your opinion?

 

[Realstokebloke]

Clearly not a tiler and doing wet rooms. Shocking!

no, not a pro., hence why I came on to ask for simple, friendly advice.

Why is that so shocking?

And where have you got wet room from?

 

[steve187]

do not score the plasterboard,

 

[DHTiling]

Scoring the PB will weaken its integrity.

 

[ian158]

no, not a pro., hence why I came on to ask for simple, friendly advice.

Why is that so shocking?

And where have you got wet room from?

coz some on here are a bit tetchy if they think your nicking their work...if your a DIY'er then fine..and your correct..theres nothing wrong in asking for some friendly advice...

 

[AliGage]

I don't think anyone on here is bothered about "nicking" work. What puts peoples noses out of joint is the likes of people advertising, taking on and taking pay for work they're not competent in doing.
Everyone is entitled to have a go at some DIY what I object to and I'm sure most others on here is builders, plumbers and no marks saying they can tile, taking someones hard earned cash and balls' ing it up.

Tiling is a skill and an art. A good tiler will be passionate as well as professional in every sense of the word. I'd expect a chippie, a plasterer etc that I may employ in the future to show the same traits. Loving your work is a key factor to being a good tiler.

To the question in hand, I would prime, no need to score. BAL would be my choice out the two you have. I usually make a frame out of some 2x1 just to ensure the tiles stay up and where I left them until the adhesive goes off.

 

[DHTiling]

I don't think anyone on here is bothered about "nicking" work. What puts peoples noses out of joint is the likes of people advertising, taking on and taking pay for work they're not competent in doing.
Everyone is entitled to have a go at some DIY what I object to and I'm sure most others on here is builders, plumbers and no marks saying they can tile, taking someones hard earned cash and balls' ing it up.

Tiling is a skill and an art. A good tiler will be passionate as well as professional in every sense of the word. I'd expect a chippie, a plasterer etc that I may employ in the future to show the same traits. Loving your work is a key factor to being a good tiler.

Well said that man ...

 

[ian158]

come-on how many times have we heard it..anyway lets not steal the op..help is on the way...

 

[DHTiling]

come-on how many times have we heard it..anyway lets not steal the op..help is on the way...

 

[Realstokebloke]

I don't think anyone on here is bothered about "nicking" work. What puts peoples noses out of joint is the likes of people advertising, taking on and taking pay for work they're not competent in doing.
Everyone is entitled to have a go at some DIY what I object to and I'm sure most others on here is builders, plumbers and no marks saying they can tile, taking someones hard earned cash and balls' ing it up.

Tiling is a skill and an art. A good tiler will be passionate as well as professional in every sense of the word. I'd expect a chippie, a plasterer etc that I may employ in the future to show the same traits. Loving your work is a key factor to being a good tiler.

To the question in hand, I would prime, no need to score. BAL would be my choice out the two you have. I usually make a frame out of some 2x1 just to ensure the tiles stay up and where I left them until the adhesive goes off.

First things first.

I both understand & respect your comments as above

So no, to be clear, a bona fide amateur, not some scam artist here gents.

Merely a DIY-er, unable to afford a pro on this project but still keen to do it right - & equally, keen to avoid doing it disastrously 'wrong' and having to do re-do it.

So it would be a real shame if every such request on here was met with cynicism and people like me were deterred from asking for same.

So thank you, those of you who gave it in good faith, for such good advice. Especially as it can be so confusing (on ano occasion, I WAS told to score the plasterboard but hey...)

OK, no scoring. Acrylic priming. However, I've d.checked & I haven't got enough BAL, so will have to use some Unibond, or...

is it such a 'no, no' that it isn't worth using it & it should be binned?

Can it (the Unibond) be that bad?

And to make matters worse / more confusing, the Unibond pack says to prime with PVA (no, I'm not that green that I don't know not to do that).

If that's the case and I get a tub for expediency (I won't be using the rest of a bag anytime soon as far as I know), I'd stick with a BAL but which colour is best; green, blue or white?





.

 

[ian158]

Remember as a kid we use to put that white glue on our fingers...it would dry and we would peel it off?...well that's what PVA is..a skin that lays on plaster board...it's different if your using it on a block wall for plastering...so it's now recommended that an acrylic is used..but before this PVA was used...not every job failed but as time went on...it was and is considered bad practice. Good tiling is all about the prep and getting a good flat and level surface and your half way there..it's a Shame there are such negative comments but they have got the t-shirt..however you will receive sound advice even if there is some banter inbetween.

 

[Realstokebloke]

Remember as a kid we use to put that white glue on our fingers...it would dry and we would peel it off?...well that's what PVA is..a skin that lays on plaster board...it's different if your using it on a block wall for plastering...so it's now recommended that an acrylic is used..but before this PVA was used...not every job failed but as time went on...it was and is considered bad practice. Good tiling is all about the prep and getting a good flat and level surface and your half way there..it's a Shame there are such negative comments but they have got the t-shirt..however you will receive sound advice even if there is some banter inbetween.

Thanks ian.

Appreciate & respect what is being said and i too live in fear of the bodgit builder/ handyman guising as a tiler, plaster, spark, chippie, whatever.

But as, quite frankly, i can't afford a craftsman on every job, it leaves me in the DIY camp - but the type of DIY-er that wants to do it right, hence get the right advice and hence ends up on here.

And leaves me genuinely grateful for the tips & pointers given.

So to those who give freely, thanks.

To those who don't, my skin is pretty thick anyway, so feel free to snipe and be suspicious.

but...

...all that said, I actually asked the BAL tech bods and a lady there said, skimmed plaster = prime with acrylic, whereas, plasterboard = no need, straight on (with the single part flexi)?

is that right?

 

[Martyn Leeds]

Yes, is what I'd say. The tech person has said it and it will also say roughly the same on the bag.. This is just a couple of small ceramics on a window reveal yes?

 

[Realstokebloke]

Yup.

Tiddlers: 20x20's.

Just find it odd (confusing) that: as I understood it, cement adhesives needed a primed base, the SPF bag & the primer both say to prime, whereas the 'techie' said no need when going straight onto pb?

which, in turn is the complete opposite if the advice I had when doing my ensuite recently (use acrylic and score the board!).

So...

no primer then.