J
joe90k
Hi All,
I am in the middle of sorting out my family bathroom, to begin with I have removed the bath, changed the original light fitting for three LED fire rated spots and am about to begin with the 1st fix.
The whole house is plumbed in 15mm Hep2O for the hot and cold supply by an unvented cylinder running at roughly 2.0 Bar. I am going to fit a Triple shower valve with diverter valve which I got from Victoria Plumb. Valve looks good in comparison to Bath Store concealed valve I have fitted before. However I after advice on mounting the valve as I have not fitted a valve in metal stud before, I have worked out how I am going to fit the valve, well sort of, it really depends on the way I finish the face of the wall. The wall in question is between the bathroom and the airing cupboard, so I plan on removing the plasterboard behind the valve in case there are any leaks in the future and because it doesn't matter if the wall in the cupboard is not covered.
The problem is that the valve is the exact thickness of the wall including the thickness of both sheets of plasterboard! So my plan was to remove a section of the front plasterboard, build the valve and all pipework on the board off the wall and then mount it up onto the metal stud, but I know ply is not a recommended material for tiling onto, I am going to tank the walls around the shower but obviously I will be using 12mm ply and 12mm plasterboard next to each other and tiling over the top. Some tiles will bridge the gap too.
The only other option I have is fixing the valve backwards through the mounting lugs on the back of the valve to batons screwed to a sheet of green plasterboard and mount that up. Any advice is greatly appreciated, I am not going to bother with cement board as I am only fixing 7mm tiles so the weight will be well under what the plasterboard can take.
I'm going to use Dunlop Rapid Set
I am in the middle of sorting out my family bathroom, to begin with I have removed the bath, changed the original light fitting for three LED fire rated spots and am about to begin with the 1st fix.
The whole house is plumbed in 15mm Hep2O for the hot and cold supply by an unvented cylinder running at roughly 2.0 Bar. I am going to fit a Triple shower valve with diverter valve which I got from Victoria Plumb. Valve looks good in comparison to Bath Store concealed valve I have fitted before. However I after advice on mounting the valve as I have not fitted a valve in metal stud before, I have worked out how I am going to fit the valve, well sort of, it really depends on the way I finish the face of the wall. The wall in question is between the bathroom and the airing cupboard, so I plan on removing the plasterboard behind the valve in case there are any leaks in the future and because it doesn't matter if the wall in the cupboard is not covered.
The problem is that the valve is the exact thickness of the wall including the thickness of both sheets of plasterboard! So my plan was to remove a section of the front plasterboard, build the valve and all pipework on the board off the wall and then mount it up onto the metal stud, but I know ply is not a recommended material for tiling onto, I am going to tank the walls around the shower but obviously I will be using 12mm ply and 12mm plasterboard next to each other and tiling over the top. Some tiles will bridge the gap too.
The only other option I have is fixing the valve backwards through the mounting lugs on the back of the valve to batons screwed to a sheet of green plasterboard and mount that up. Any advice is greatly appreciated, I am not going to bother with cement board as I am only fixing 7mm tiles so the weight will be well under what the plasterboard can take.
I'm going to use Dunlop Rapid Set
