Victorian tiles underneath a carpet have absorbed pattern from rubber underlay. How can I remove, any ideas?

[lovevictorianstuff]

 

[Dan]

Can you do us an up-close shot for us? I'm guessing it will actually be just printed on the surface so I'd first try a good scrubbing brush with soapy water in a corner where it wont get seen too much if it goes wrong.

If that doesn't work a tile cleaner is the next step. So something like LTP Wax Wash - https://www.tilefixdirect.com/product/LTP-9-1 is not too intense.

This is perhaps the next sort of strength up. Lithofin KF Tile Restorer 1L - https://www.tilefixdirect.com/product/LFTILE

I think it'll be a case of trial and error with a few products, but when it works those will be lovely. Then you'll need to seal them. Can make them nice and polished and shiney or keep the matte look which personally I prefer but it's down to personal preference at that stage.

 

[lovevictorianstuff]

Can you do us an up-close shot for us? I'm guessing it will actually be just printed on the surface so I'd first try a good scrubbing brush with soapy water in a corner where it wont get seen too much if it goes wrong.

If that doesn't work a tile cleaner is the next step. So something like LTP Wax Wash - https://www.tilefixdirect.com/product/LTP-9-1 is not too intense.

This is perhaps the next sort of strength up. Lithofin KF Tile Restorer 1L - https://www.tilefixdirect.com/product/LFTILE

I think it'll be a case of trial and error with a few products, but when it works those will be lovely. Then you'll need to seal them. Can make them nice and polished and shiney or keep the matte look which personally I prefer but it's down to personal preference at that stage.

Dan - thank you so much for your reply. I don’t think it’s just on the surface as I’ve cleaned them a lot (my knees can testify to that) I attach a close up. Will definitely take your advice and try those two products. The wavy imprint seems to have been absorbed right into the tiles but I’m a bit scared of using anything that will penetrate in case it spoils the tiles so will definitely try in a corner first. Thank you. Here is the close up ..

 

[Dan]

Okay I see your point there. It does seem to be imbedded. Can you use a screwdriver or something to make a tiny scratch near a radiator or somewhere it won't be too obvious? Could do with seeing how much it has penetrated.

A good cleaner should be able to get most of it out, it'll need dissolve it though so I don't think the soapy ones are going to work you're going to need some chemicals on that.

The most serious of chemicals is going to be the brick acid type stuff: https://www.google.com/search?q=bri.....69i57j0l7.1319j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

But you'll need test it well first.

If they go dull that's not so bad as a sealer will bring them back up bright and clean, either shinny or matte you have the choice.

But you'll want to work up to that with lesser serious stuff.

Speak to Wet Rooms | Shower Trays & Screens | Electric Underfloor Heating Systems - https://www.tilefixdirect.com/ tell them Dan sent you from the forum. Let us know what they recommend, and keep in touch with regards to what's working etc.

That's a really lovely floor though that so you'll be pleased your knees only hurt for a bit but the floor will last a lifetime.

 

[lovevictorianstuff]

Okay I see your point there. It does seem to be imbedded. Can you use a screwdriver or something to make a tiny scratch near a radiator or somewhere it won't be too obvious? Could do with seeing how much it has penetrated.

A good cleaner should be able to get most of it out, it'll need dissolve it though so I don't think the soapy ones are going to work you're going to need some chemicals on that.

The most serious of chemicals is going to be the brick acid type stuff: https://www.google.com/search?q=bri.....69i57j0l7.1319j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

But you'll need test it well first.

If they go dull that's not so bad as a sealer will bring them back up bright and clean, either shinny or matte you have the choice.

But you'll want to work up to that with lesser serious stuff.

Speak to Wet Rooms | Shower Trays & Screens | Electric Underfloor Heating Systems - https://www.tilefixdirect.com/ tell them Dan sent you from the forum. Let us know what they recommend, and keep in touch with regards to what's working etc.

That's a really lovely floor though that so you'll be pleased your knees only hurt for a bit but the floor will last a lifetime.

Hi Dan

I emailed them as suggested, they recommended approaching Lithofin directly.
They recommended :-

Lithofin KF Tile Restorer.

I also had a response from Tile Doctor:-

“Not easy to remove as the carpet underlay emits a gas which mixes
with the colour of the underlay and this leaves a mark after many many
years, the only way we can remove it is by opening up the pores of the
clay using a 50 grit diamond block then we apply some Acid Gel, leave
it to soak for 40 minutes,and then we scrub and rinse with water, a
wet vac would be very useful at this stage to remove the excess
liquid, rinse and vac again and then close the pores of the tiles with
a 100 grit diamond block, followed by a 200 red and a yellow 400,
rinse and scrub and vac again, leave to dry and then once fully dry
apply 2 coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow sealer.”

I also contacted Original Style, they said:-



“It is quite difficult to identify what the residue might be from the photograph but if the tile feels smooth, we would recommend using LTP Power Stripper.

This may however be a tough job and there are specialist Victorian Floor Tile renovation firms which may be able to assist.”

Think I will try the Lithofin KF tile restorer in a corner to see how that goes.


Thanks again

April

 

[RDCoombs]

Hey, I have the exact same issue on my tiles. Did you manage to sort it and what did you do?

Thanks!

 

[TileDoctor]

We see this problem a lot when restoring Victorian floors, the only we have found to resolve it is to use coarse burnishing pads on the floor, usually 50 grit followed by, 100 grit, then 200 grit pads.

 

[RDCoombs]

We see this problem a lot when restoring Victorian floors, the only we have found to resolve it is to use coarse burnishing pads on the floor, usually 50 grit followed by, 100 grit, then 200 grit pads.

I've done a recent post here, could you take a look as I've added some photos just to make sure it's the same thing?

 

[RDCoombs]

We see this problem a lot when restoring Victorian floors, the only we have found to resolve it is to use coarse burnishing pads on the floor, usually 50 grit followed by, 100 grit, then 200 grit pads.

1920s/30s Black and White Tile Restoration Advice Needed

I've recently bought a house dated around the 1920/30s and found black and white tiles underneath the carpet in the hallway. I've already cleaned the majority of the grime away, including paint marks, stiff glue and dirt, however there's a few parts I really can't rectify: Yellow/brown...

www.tilersforums.com

 

[TileDoctor]

I've done a recent post here, could you take a look as I've added some photos just to make sure it's the same thing?

Yup definately the same issue, burnishing pads are the solution.

 

[Lou]

Don't mind me while I bump up some older but good threads. If you can contribute to the thread, go ahead. But if it's nothing for you then don't reply and it'll soon drop off the What's New page etc.
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