Waterproofing Bathroom

[AdamW]

Evening All,

First of all this is my first post here and I have tried to find the answer to my question, but not managed. Also apologies if this is not the correct forum but it seemed the most appropriate.

I am in the process of renovating a bathroom, and I am trying to determine the best solution for my needs.

The bathroom will have a ceiling mounted soaker head above the bath, but is not technically a wet room. However I want to ensure that it is sufficiently waterproofed and with young kids water inevitably gets everywhere!

Currently the room is down to bare brickwork on all 4 walls (1930's build) and has a reinforced 18mm WBP plywood floor.

My original plan was to install 12mm hardiebacker board onto the walls followed by Dural Durabase WP on the walls and just Durabase CI on the floor directly on to the WBP plywood. This seems a very good solution for effective waterproofing.

However, given the room is not a 'wet room', is this over the top?

I am not too concerned about the cost, although I don't want to spend unnecessarily and also not too concerned about the additional work.

• Could I get away with just the hardibacker or just the Dural Durabase?
• If not, what are the benefits of both?
• What adhesive is best for both the Hardiebacker and the Dural Durabase?

Any help you can provide will be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

[jollyroger]

Hi Adam, welcome. If it's a shower over a bath, I would be fitting plasterboard and Mapei tanking kit. I would also glue and screw 6mm Hardi to the floor on top of the ply. The most important thing here is to make sure the bath is supported by a sturdy timber frame all round.

 

[AdamW]

Hi Adam, welcome. If it's a shower over a bath, I would be fitting plasterboard and Mapei tanking kit. I would also glue and screw 6mm Hardi to the floor on top of the ply. The most important thing here is to make sure the bath is supported by a sturdy timber frame all round.

Thanks for the prompt reply!

Out of interest why do you think not to use the Durabase and hardiebacker on the walls?

Ive read about the Mapei tanking kit but is it not messy and cheaper to use Durabase?

 

[lizzardtong]

12 mm hardie its pain in the back to work with (hevy, hard to cut, screw) you can use jackoboards which have insulation properties and you can use them on the floor as well. you just have to tank joints and screws.
but using normal plasterboards and tanking it would be good enough ( i use ardex tanking).
money saved you can invest in heat recovery ventilation

 

[AdamW]

12 mm hardie its pain in the back to work with (hevy, hard to cut, screw) you can use jackoboards which have insulation properties and you can use them on the floor as well. you just have to tank joints and screws.
but using normal plasterboards and tanking it would be good enough ( i use ardex tanking).
money saved you can invest in heat recovery ventilation

Given the size of the board they're not too heavy? Having picked them up I thought they were easily workable.

I don't know why but I don't think the 'paint' on tanking solutions are as effective as the dural (or similar) matting. Is this true or is tanking just as effective? If so what product?

Potentially I could get away with Hardiebacker just round the bath and sink, and normal plasterboard elsewhere, with durabase all round?

I guess I need convincing that tanking is just as effective!