Wickes powdered Tile adhesive not set

[stakee]

Hello,
I was hoping somebody could help with our tiling problem. Last week we tiled our conservatory with homebase ceramic tiles. We had a very thick chipboard floor, so we then screwed on exterior plywood on top. Then we used Wickes powdered adhesive and then Wickes powdered grey grout. Within a day there were cracks all over the grout, so after reading many forums on here I assumed that we had over watered the grout or that perhaps because it was not a flexible grout the tiles had moved slightly and therefore the grout cracked. So the next plan was to begrudgingly de-grout and then use a flexible grout instead. However, as soon as I removed the grout the tiles came loose and were easy to lift. The adhesive underneath obviously hadn't set (in a whole week) and felt like damp sand. What could have been the reason for this? As I don't want to retile and regrout to find this problem occur again!

Thank you for any ideas, it is a 15m sq floor so took a pretty long time to do!

Stacey

 

[Martino]

Did you follow the correct steps when mixing the adhesive?...how long did you leave it before you grouted?....you would need to use flexible addy and grout deffo

 

[stakee]

Thanks for your speedy reply!
We followed the instructions on the bag and it was Wickes (not rapid set) and we used 3 adhesive to 1 water. We left it 24 hours then grouted. oops no flexi admix

 

[DHTiling]

Chipboard floor.. is this onto joists..?

As for adhesive.. over watering can result in weak mix and none setting due to incorrect ratio for hydration.

 

[joshtiler]

Hi there Stacey, sorry to hear about your problem, I just looked at the adhesive you used (I have never used it) and a few reviews state that they also had this problem, plywood is not an ideal surface to tile onto really if it were me I would use a tile backer board layed onto the chipboard and then choose a better flexible adhesive such as Bal or Weber. The trouble with wickes is its very DIY friendly but the products they offer are not really suitable. I certainly would never use a wickes adhesive. Hope that helps.

 

[stakee]

Ive replied twice but can't see them on here! Please let me know if you can se them or I may keep writing the same thing over and over again :S

Umm yes on joist, it was thick chipboard but read on here you shouldn't do it on that. As the last house owner used a nail gun the chipboard was impossible for us to get up, so we used plywood on top and millions of screws.

The adhesive was mixed 3 adhesive: 1 water. Is this normal? Also could you recommend a better adhesive to use (I will add flexi ad too)

 

[Ian]

All posts have been approved now Stacey.

 

[Perry]

I don't think there ordinary adhesive is suitable for using on a wooden floor also was it WPB ply and how thick was it?

 

[stakee]

I must admit it was about 6mm- I've since read on here that it should be 15mm :S However that was screwed on top of about 30mm chipboard.

Does anyone know a adhesive that could be used on wooden flooring? I'd really appreciate it!

Also I've scrapped off as much of the wet sandy residue and grout as possible, is it ok to tile straight on top of that as its not a an entirely smooth surface. (Please say yes I have blisters on my hands)

Thanks again

 

[Martyn Leeds]

What was the finish like, once you'd laid them??
Have you had any quote from local tilers??

 

[stakee]

No quotes- thought we could have a go ourselves. Unfortunately not really an option due to finances!

They actually good really good but crack started appearing in grout- thought it was problem with grout but seems its problem with the adhesive!

 

[Andy Tiler]

No quotes- thought we could have a go ourselves. Unfortunately not really an option due to finances!

They actually good really good but crack started appearing in grout- thought it was problem with grout but seems its problem with the adhesive!

6mm ply is no good! Overboard the lot with hardibacker 250 glued and screwed and tile it again with a flexible powdered adhesive! Tilemaster ultimate or bal fast flex

 

[Stef]

As stated 6mm ply is no good but it still should have held the tiles,
Did u prime the ply?
I've never used wickes adhesive (& never will)
Go to a tile shop & not a DIY store.

 

[AliGage]

You say this is a conservatory floor? What's the joists over? Are they laid on a concrete base?

 

[stakee]

Thanks for all the replies!
Put PVA and water solution on ply to prime it. The joists are On a metal frame- no concrete :s

 

[Del W]

Hello Stakee,the ply will need to come up,its too thin.
Never use PVA when tiling.
Use Hardie backer 250 on top of chipboard.Use a 3mm trowl & screw every 150mm.
Follow instructions for Hardie backer.Use a powdered addy from a tile shop.Tile Giant,etc.

 

[DHTiling]

Ahh PVA... well there you go then..

 

[AliGage]

Thanks for all the replies!
Put PVA and water solution on ply to prime it. The joists are On a metal frame- no concrete :s

How is the floor constructed then. What is under it all? Mud or waste from building the conservatory? If there's no concrete base and its perhaps suspended from pay the conservatory walls. Then what measures were put in to prevent damp and moisture under the floor rising into the room?

 

[Andy Allen]

I would seek help from a local tiler if I was you, this seems to have cost you already and could end up costing you more, tilers can get trade discounts on adhesives and grouts, and they may be willing to help you out a bit..

 

[stakee]

oh dear about the PVA!


I'm now in the process of removing all tiles- if I put Hardibacker 250 on top of the ply how smooth should the surface be underneath? It's all very sandy!

Thanks for all the responses- extremely helpful!

 

[Del W]

Remove the ply.