R
Rob Z
Some background first, then my question....
The designer's plans for this bathroom called for a wavy soffit over the shower. The designer gave me the dimensions for the curves, I figured out the radii and the length of the curves, and then we built this in the shop and installed it. We then covered it with drywall and my employee plastered it, sanded it, primed and painted it. That was the easy part.
The problem is that now the husband has just learned what his wife decided back in July (she said she told him, he says she didn't tell him :mad2: ). The original drawings showed small glass mosaics in a band on the wall directly under the soffit. These small mosaics (about 1/2" x 1/2" and only about 3/32" thick) are paper mounted on the face. The designer thought they could be water-jetted to form the curve. The manufacturer said no they won't do it. I told the customer that the only way reasonably I could do this would be to install the wall tile first, running it up behind the eventual location of the curved soffit, and then install the soffit afterwards and use a flexible bead along the transition from the soffit to the glass tile. This would of course be some what more time consuming and thus more expensive for the labor.
The customer decided to save some money on the project and opted for the glass to get installed lower down the wall, with the 3" x 6" travertine running up to the soffit (easier to scribe and cut travertine than glass). This way, I could install full sheets of the glass mosaics and avoid cuts.
Now, the husband is unhappy (not with me, but with the missus) that the glass won't be installed at the top of the wall and under the soffit. I said I would try to figure out a way to do this, even though it's too late to do my original idea of installing the soffit after the glass is in place.
Jay from Oz mentioned applying contact paper and getting the sheets water jetted, but I don't think that will work because these are paper face mounted.
I don't think I can use biters to trim these because they are extremely fragile and thin. And even if so. there is almost 8 feet of intersection to trim and that would be about 200 tiles to try and cut:yikes:.
I'm not sure that a dry cutting diamond wheel in the small RotoZip saw would give a good cut (at least the paper would stay intact with no water).
I don't think it's practical to try and cut 200 individual tiles (glass blade on wet saw) and then set them by hand, one at a time.
Any suggestions or great ideas? I hate to just immediately tell the clients "too bad " and that they can just argue with each other about the fact they they didn't communicate about the changes the wife made to save some money on the original scope of work. I'd like to figure out some way to solve this problem.
That kneewall you see in the picture was built to be exactly the width and height of a certain number of sheets of glass mosaics (no cutting). The void at the top will be filled with drypack, sloped for a stone ledge and then a piece of glass up to the ceiling.
That's Wedi board on the walls.
The designer's plans for this bathroom called for a wavy soffit over the shower. The designer gave me the dimensions for the curves, I figured out the radii and the length of the curves, and then we built this in the shop and installed it. We then covered it with drywall and my employee plastered it, sanded it, primed and painted it. That was the easy part.
The problem is that now the husband has just learned what his wife decided back in July (she said she told him, he says she didn't tell him :mad2: ). The original drawings showed small glass mosaics in a band on the wall directly under the soffit. These small mosaics (about 1/2" x 1/2" and only about 3/32" thick) are paper mounted on the face. The designer thought they could be water-jetted to form the curve. The manufacturer said no they won't do it. I told the customer that the only way reasonably I could do this would be to install the wall tile first, running it up behind the eventual location of the curved soffit, and then install the soffit afterwards and use a flexible bead along the transition from the soffit to the glass tile. This would of course be some what more time consuming and thus more expensive for the labor.
The customer decided to save some money on the project and opted for the glass to get installed lower down the wall, with the 3" x 6" travertine running up to the soffit (easier to scribe and cut travertine than glass). This way, I could install full sheets of the glass mosaics and avoid cuts.
Now, the husband is unhappy (not with me, but with the missus) that the glass won't be installed at the top of the wall and under the soffit. I said I would try to figure out a way to do this, even though it's too late to do my original idea of installing the soffit after the glass is in place.
Jay from Oz mentioned applying contact paper and getting the sheets water jetted, but I don't think that will work because these are paper face mounted.
I don't think I can use biters to trim these because they are extremely fragile and thin. And even if so. there is almost 8 feet of intersection to trim and that would be about 200 tiles to try and cut:yikes:.
I'm not sure that a dry cutting diamond wheel in the small RotoZip saw would give a good cut (at least the paper would stay intact with no water).
I don't think it's practical to try and cut 200 individual tiles (glass blade on wet saw) and then set them by hand, one at a time.
Any suggestions or great ideas? I hate to just immediately tell the clients "too bad " and that they can just argue with each other about the fact they they didn't communicate about the changes the wife made to save some money on the original scope of work. I'd like to figure out some way to solve this problem.
That kneewall you see in the picture was built to be exactly the width and height of a certain number of sheets of glass mosaics (no cutting). The void at the top will be filled with drypack, sloped for a stone ledge and then a piece of glass up to the ceiling.
That's Wedi board on the walls.
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