Wunda board

[Boxtiling]

Hi there am wondering if anyone on here has tiled on to the wunda floor system with the foil boards and if so can yous tell me best way to tile it am not to sure a want to do the job as there’s not a lot of good feed back any information would help One of your fellow tilers 👍

 

[Dumbo]

I think @3_fall is up to speed on this as he is most things but your primary problem is the adhesive reacting with the foil and creating gas which in turns makes your adhesive like an aero bar so you need to make sure you isolate your adhesive from the foil . I would suggest you get a written method statement from your adhesive supplier of choice and then come back to us

 

[Boxtiling]

A have spoke to Mapei they said prime it first then tile directly on to it with Mapei keribond t with isolastic which is there 2 part stuff but as usual they just say that’s what they recommend it’s over 100m so a don’t want it coming back to me if it lifts

 

[Old Mod]

As Jerry says above, you need a method statement, to make sure you’re covered.
I’m sure you’ll find tho that Mapei recommenced Kerabond T & Isolastic
Ultra also have a spec for it.
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Priming is the most important part, as mentioned.
Personally tho, it’s not something I would touch with that spec.
there is a 6mm board supplied by WundaTrade I think, to overboard it, but, and get this, their spec is to loose lay it. 🙈
I’d want it mechanically fixed before I covered it.
Combination of cement and aluminium can create hydrogen gas, Aluminium powder is added to cement grout in industrial situation to heavy machinery platforms.
They sit the equipment on the slab with holes for the legs, they then fill with cement grout and aluminium dust, this makes the cement expand and firmly fix the legs in the slab.
A byproduct of this process is hydrogen gas.
This as far as I can tell, weakens the bond.
Those are the pitfalls from my pint of view, Mapei and Ultra are the only two companies I’m aware of that’ll spec these systems

 

[Old Mod]

On a floor that size I would prime with isomats supergrund resin based grit primer, use their standard set S2 AK25 to stick 6mm boards, next day mechanically fix boards to substrate and then use their S1 plus AK22.

 

[Boxtiling]

A think over boarding is the answer and as 3fall you say make sure it mechanically fixed the other problem is the client is fitting it himself so am going to see it Monday before a actually agree to do the job as the client works in IT 🙈

 

[Old Mod]

am going to see it Monday before a actually agree to do the job as the client works in IT 🙈

Oh that’ll be interesting then 🙄🤣
Good luck.

 

[Boxtiling]

These people think they can just watch videos on you tube and do things 🙈🙈also the wunda heating company have a video as well with a man and a women laying it 😂

 

[Old Mod]

These people think they can just watch videos on you tube and do things 🙈🙈also the wunda heating company have a video as well with a man and a women laying it 😂

Yeah they certainly don’t help, if there wasn’t so much money in diy it’d be different. 🤷🏻‍♂️

 

[J Sid]

It's the glue holding the foil boards to the board which is the main area of failure I've been told by a nationwide ufh store.
Why would anyone consider using these went there is far better products out there

 

[Dumbo]

It's the glue holding the foil boards to the board which is the main area of failure I've been told by a nationwide ufh store.
Why would anyone consider using these went there is far better products out there

I just think companies invent these products and then dream up a spec without testing properly .
Then the finger gets pointed at the installer.

 

[J Sid]

Spot on Jerry

 

[spence]

It's the glue holding the foil boards to the board which is the main area of failure I've been told by a nationwide ufh store.
Why would anyone consider using these went there is far better products out there

HI Julian, I would be interested to know who you would consider a better option for a low profile retro fit. There are so many companies out there its difficult to know which ones are good - Wunda look a reasonable price but tiling straight onto the boards makes me a little nervous./

Thanks for any help on this.
Ashley

 

[Dumbo]

HI Julian, I would be interested to know who you would consider a better option for a low profile retro fit. There are so many companies out there its difficult to know which ones are good - Wunda look a reasonable price but tiling straight onto the boards makes me a little nervous./

Thanks for any help on this.
Ashley

I have no experience in this but Maybe you should consider design and longevity before price .
Your project us going to be expensive anyway . Maybe spending a bit more on a system you feel happy with is the way to go after all doing it twice is really expensive

 

[Bill]

I am tiling one at the moment. It hasn't been an easy ride but the builder has told me to go ahead and tile it with my preferred choice of materials.

Basically I have primed it thoroughly, added a flexible slc then put a crack mat on and then tiled.

So far so good and all appears very well stuck.

I still have a few doubts but using quality products eases my mind.

If it does debond then in theory the floor should still be ok due to the crack mat acting as a floating membrane.

I will post some photos when i get home tonight.

 

[spence]

I have no experience in this but Maybe you should consider design and longevity before price .
Your project us going to be expensive anyway . Maybe spending a bit more on a system you feel happy with is the way to go after all doing it twice is really expensive

Ideally i want a low profile system as its a retro fit and i don't want to add much height to the existing concrete floor. I'm not fussed paying more for a better product but as there are so many on the market I'm not sure which is best. Wunda seem to have goo market reviews and NuFlow are more expensive but paying more doesn't always equate to better.
[automerge]1574350919[/automerge]

I am tiling one at the moment. It hasn't been an easy ride but the builder has told me to go ahead and tile it with my preferred choice of materials.

Basically I have primed it thoroughly, added a flexible slc then put a crack mat on and then tiled.

So far so good and all appears very well stuck.

I still have a few doubts but using quality products eases my mind.

If it does debond then in theory the floor should still be ok due to the crack mat acting as a floating membrane.

I will post some photos when i get home tonight.

Okay great to know - i think i was going to put a crack mat on it too - although the instructions just say tile straight on. You will have to let me know how it goes. Yeah i hear you have to be thorough with the priming as the aluminium can react and create bubbles.

 

[Bill]

Personally i wouldn't use wundafloor .

 

[spence]

Personally i wouldn't use wundafloor .

Any suggestions of any other low profile systems you would consider?

 

[J Sid]

Present job, 110m2 of reto ufh

ProWarm™ 25mm Solid floor panels

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www.theunderfloorheatingstore.com

Or

404 Not Found - Underfloor Heating Direct | Affordable Underfloor Heating

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Also come in 18mm

There is plenty of companies which sell these sort of boards. Above are two.

They are easy to fit.

Hope this is of help

 

[Boxtiling]

Told the client a wasn’t doing the job as he wasn’t prepared to pay the extra for the primer and also the kerabond t and isolastic so he messaged me today to say that he got a tiler who texted the the board with sticking a tile on with s2 and he’s happy to go with that 😂😂🙈🙈
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Tested

 

[Dan]

It's laughable.

The job will come back around don't worry about it.

Customers need come on the forum see some of the jobs done wrong. We have shed loads of them. They tend to find the forum when it's too late most of the time.