I'm just grouting a new en suite and have left the corners open until I'm sure of the best way to do them.
I'm going to presume I need to use a flexible sealant on the inside corners and where the tiles meet the tray, but, do you fill the gaps with grout first and lay a bead of sealant on top...
OK, I see your point about cracking, I may have to chance this one room then.
I don't suspect any odd differences in the floor, I helped at all stages and insulation and membrane were all 100%. The house is triple glazed with Velfac windows, never seen even a hint of condensation so I hope that...
I hope its dry Alan! House has been sealed up tight and is bone dry.
So if I heat the floor and let it cool again what change will that have made?
Do I need to reconsider adhesive brand, is Mapi not a good choice?
Thanks Alan, I would have gone with 2mm gaps so will go with 3mm now.
The heating is pressurised but I can't run it?
I was hoping after 3 years there is no moisture there to speak of.
So do you need the floor to be 'warm' to lay the tiles?
Hi Ajax, I was trying to be 100% sure I was doing this right.
I have a calcium Sulfate new floor, laid 3 years now (long story) and I have cold UFH, that is pressurised but not hot yet.
I need to crack on and lay some 600x600 porcelain in one room and en suite so part of the house can be used...
I need a tile cutter gor 600x600 Italian porcelain and am close to pulling the trigger on the the Rubi TX710.
It's a log of cash so I would be interested in opinions of this tools worth or suggestions of a better buy?
Cheers.
Hi has anyone got the text of this TTA technical document I can have a look at?
Tiling To Calcium Sulfate Based Screeds (Revised Dec 2011)
I'm starting my 150sqm porcelain install soon and want to make sure I haven't missed anything.
Cheers.
Hi can anybody help me confirm these 'free' tiles are floor tiles?
I have had them 'in stock' for over ten years!
Thank you if you can help, all the details should be on the photos.
I just sealed my calcium ****** floor with tilemaster+ primer which requires a 3:1 coat and a following coat of undiluted primer.
OK with that but I wonder is it OK to prime this weekend and lay tiles on it next weekend or is that not going to work?
I have 20l of Nassboards latex tanking paint but am unsure if a primer is required?
The substrate is cement board which is clean and not dusty.
If I do need a primer can I use 50/50 PVA or must it be something expensive!
I have also been looking for a good value tape for the joints and am put...