My 1st Job Removing old adhesive

Shooter999 · Apr 20, 2017

Again, thanks for the reply.

Is there any benefit to boarding it compared to grinding away the current adhesive (apart from less mess, although boarding will be more expensive).

If I board it, it will reduce the clearance available between the bedroom and the bathroom.

Thanks for all replies.

Flintstone · Apr 20, 2017

You need to board it regardless, you should not tile onto chip board.

Shooter999 · Apr 20, 2017

Thanks for the information. I'm slightly confused!!

If I grind all of the adhesive away, won't it be back to its original state, as it was when it was 1st tiled, where they would have tiled onto the boards? Or is this now considered bad practice?

Are you recommending that there is no point in removing the existing adhesive and I should just hardiebacker the whole floor (on top of new adhesive).

For information, the house was built in 2005.

Flintstone · Apr 20, 2017

Some people do tile on to chip board but it's not advisable, nobody on here will advise it I don't think.
That's what I would do, overboard with hardie over the floor as it is, no grinding. Just take any lumps or high bits off.
What tiles are you using

Shooter999 · Apr 20, 2017

Again thanks for the reply.

Apologies for all of the questions, I'm not questioning your advice (as you're a professional and im a complete novice!), I really appreciate the fact that you're taking the time and patience to reply to me, I'm just trying to gain an understanding.

I was under the assumption (possibly mistakenly) that it was either remove the existing adhesive and then tile onto the existing floor or hardiebacker the floor as it is.

However you're saying that if I followed the advice given above about the scraper and grinder cup, I would still need to hardiebacker the floor, but your method will mean less work for me.

We'll be using porcelain tiles (although the wife hasn't picked them yet).

Is there an adhesive and trowel you can recommend for laying the hardiebacker onto?

Flintstone · Apr 20, 2017

No problem!
Adhesive depends on what you can get locally, something reputable such as Mapei, tilemaster, or ultra, you want a rapid set flexible adhesive.
Probably a 10mm x 10mm square notch trowel,
Spread it as i have in the pic to an even bed, don't mix it stiff. I'm sure some one else will confirm

Old Mod · Apr 20, 2017

Yeah as long as you don't have height issues, then the easier way is to just overboard as Andy says.

Shooter999 · Apr 20, 2017

Thanks guys. When you say height issues, is that in relation to the clearance between the bathroom and the bedroom (which is carpeted)? How can I check this?

Our current tiles are 10mm thick and approx 5mm adhesive, so 15mm in total. If don't grind the existing adhesive, I could end up with a depth of approx 30mm (existing adhesive 5mm, new adhesive 3mm, 6mm hardiebacker, 5mm adhesive, and 10mm tile.

Does the above calculation make sense?

Shooter999 · Apr 20, 2017

Regarding the adhesive, will this do:

Mapei Mapeker Rapid Set Tile Adhesive Grey 20kg | Wickes.co.uk - http://www.wickes.co.uk/Mapei-Mapeker-Rapid-Set-Tile-Adhesive-Grey-20kg/p/102976

Think I need 6 bags (approx 30m2)

Will I be able to use the above to:

1. Attach hardiebacker to existing floor.
2. Attach floor tiles to hardiebacker.
3. Attach wall tiles to existing platerboard and new hardiebacker in shower enclosure?

I'm a bit wary that some of the reviews say it sets very quickly. This will be my 1st tiling job and I would prefer something that gives me a bi more time to get the tiles on.

Flintstone · Apr 20, 2017

It is suitable yes but yes it will last about 40 mins once mixed. They should do a slow set version that will last several hour in the bucket.

Kyle Knowles · Apr 20, 2017

Shooter999 said:
Hi everyone,

After a bit of advice (isn't everyone).

We need to completely overhaul our upstairs ensuite bathroom.

I've managed to remove all of the tiles and the old shower and enclosure.

What's left is the adhesive on the flooring. It just doesn't want to come up (as can be seen from the pics).

What are my options to get this in a fit state to begin tiling?

A friend who is a builder mentioned putting down 6mm hardiebacker? If I were to do this, do I have to put some form of adhesive down to level the existing floor and to attach the hardiebacker to?

Is the above the best option, or are there others?

Thanks in advance for all replies.

View attachment 89745 View attachment 89746

PersonallyI'd use a grinder with a cup grinder attachment linked up to a vacuum

Tile Marble Granite · Apr 20, 2017

This is how it's done brother

Kyle Knowles · Apr 20, 2017

detroitMi said:
This is how it's done brother

View attachment 89769 View attachment 89770 View attachment 89771 View attachment 89772 View attachment 89773 View attachment 89774 View attachment 89775 View attachment 89776

Exactly what I would do

Shooter999 · Apr 20, 2017

I've ordered a grinding cup and some masking tape to tape up the door.

Will hopefully give it a go on the weekend. I'll report back to let you know how I got on!

Old Mod · Apr 20, 2017

Don't buy rapid set adhesive, you will invariably throw away more than you use, especially as a first timer.
It has no place in wall tiling anyway, there are exceptions of course, but not in your case.
You are aware that hardibacker is NOT waterproof aren't you?
It has to be tanked before tiling.
There are more efficient ways of building a shower cubicle.

My 1st Job Removing old adhesive

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