Discuss Removing old adhesive in the Tile Adhesive and Grout Advice area at TilersForums.com.

Again, thanks for the reply.

Is there any benefit to boarding it compared to grinding away the current adhesive (apart from less mess, although boarding will be more expensive).

If I board it, it will reduce the clearance available between the bedroom and the bathroom.

Thanks for all replies.
 
Thanks for the information. I'm slightly confused!!

If I grind all of the adhesive away, won't it be back to its original state, as it was when it was 1st tiled, where they would have tiled onto the boards? Or is this now considered bad practice?

Are you recommending that there is no point in removing the existing adhesive and I should just hardiebacker the whole floor (on top of new adhesive).

For information, the house was built in 2005.
 
Again thanks for the reply.

Apologies for all of the questions, I'm not questioning your advice (as you're a professional and im a complete novice!), I really appreciate the fact that you're taking the time and patience to reply to me, I'm just trying to gain an understanding.

I was under the assumption (possibly mistakenly) that it was either remove the existing adhesive and then tile onto the existing floor or hardiebacker the floor as it is.

However you're saying that if I followed the advice given above about the scraper and grinder cup, I would still need to hardiebacker the floor, but your method will mean less work for me.

We'll be using porcelain tiles (although the wife hasn't picked them yet).

Is there an adhesive and trowel you can recommend for laying the hardiebacker onto?
 
Thanks guys. When you say height issues, is that in relation to the clearance between the bathroom and the bedroom (which is carpeted)? How can I check this?

Our current tiles are 10mm thick and approx 5mm adhesive, so 15mm in total. If don't grind the existing adhesive, I could end up with a depth of approx 30mm (existing adhesive 5mm, new adhesive 3mm, 6mm hardiebacker, 5mm adhesive, and 10mm tile.

Does the above calculation make sense?
 
Regarding the adhesive, will this do:

Mapei Mapeker Rapid Set Tile Adhesive Grey 20kg | Wickes.co.uk - http://www.wickes.co.uk/Mapei-Mapeker-Rapid-Set-Tile-Adhesive-Grey-20kg/p/102976

Think I need 6 bags (approx 30m2)

Will I be able to use the above to:

1. Attach hardiebacker to existing floor.
2. Attach floor tiles to hardiebacker.
3. Attach wall tiles to existing platerboard and new hardiebacker in shower enclosure?

I'm a bit wary that some of the reviews say it sets very quickly. This will be my 1st tiling job and I would prefer something that gives me a bi more time to get the tiles on.
 

Kyle Knowles

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Hi everyone,

After a bit of advice (isn't everyone).

We need to completely overhaul our upstairs ensuite bathroom.

I've managed to remove all of the tiles and the old shower and enclosure.

What's left is the adhesive on the flooring. It just doesn't want to come up (as can be seen from the pics).

What are my options to get this in a fit state to begin tiling?

A friend who is a builder mentioned putting down 6mm hardiebacker? If I were to do this, do I have to put some form of adhesive down to level the existing floor and to attach the hardiebacker to?

Is the above the best option, or are there others?

Thanks in advance for all replies.

View attachment 89745 View attachment 89746
PersonallyI'd use a grinder with a cup grinder attachment linked up to a vacuum
 
This is how it's done brother

P1110959.JPG P1110960.JPG P1110961.JPG P1110962.JPG P1110963.JPG P1110964.JPG P1110965.JPG P1110966.JPG
 
O

Old Mod

Don't buy rapid set adhesive, you will invariably throw away more than you use, especially as a first timer.
It has no place in wall tiling anyway, there are exceptions of course, but not in your case.
You are aware that hardibacker is NOT waterproof aren't you?
It has to be tanked before tiling.
There are more efficient ways of building a shower cubicle.
 

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Removing old adhesive
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