Shower surround substrate

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STEvieXE

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423

N. Ireland

• Nov 21, 2018

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• #1 of 24

Hey guys, I am retiling a shower, one of the walls is plasterboard and removing the old tiles has damaged it. I am planning to remove all the tiles and cut the plasterboard out.

Tiler has suggested using plasterboard as it will be tanked before the new tiles. New tiles won't be heavy etc so no need for cement boards.

Plumber* has said I'd be better to use ply/ marine ply?! As if there ever would be moisture near it,it would cope better than plasterboard.

I'm inclined to go with the plasterboard from reading on here. Also think it would be easier joined to the adjacent piece of plastered plasterboard. Cheaper .

Is this my best option of the two? For clarification purposes!

 

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Waluigi

• Nov 21, 2018

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• #2 of 24

Yes.

 

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STEvieXE

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423

N. Ireland

• Nov 21, 2018

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• #3 of 24

When I replace the plasterboard I asume I tape the joint and use a bit of filler over to blend into the new piece. If the filler blends into where the tiles will be in asuming this isn't a big deal? Very little just to smooth it in before tiling

 

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Flintstone

• Nov 21, 2018

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• #4 of 24

We all know what happens to wood when it gets wet or near humidity even, avoid! It's been abolished this year from british standards for wall tiling. Plaster board is fine and a bit of filler feather wont be an issue

 

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STEvieXE

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21

423

N. Ireland

• Nov 21, 2018

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• #5 of 24

Thanks chaps, responses are appreciated

 

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One Day

• Nov 21, 2018

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• #6 of 24

The plumber is a moron - end of.

 

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Time's Ran Out

• Nov 22, 2018

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• #7 of 24

It would be better to use a sheet of 12mm Wedi board!

 

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STEvieXE

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423

N. Ireland

• Nov 22, 2018

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• #8 of 24

I'm thinking plasterboard for cost and ease of joining to the original but I know what you are saying about the cement board and will be using it on the next project!

For reference in that situation if I was going to use cement board joining to plasterboard do I just tape the joint and fill it the same as regular plasterboard ?

 

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Waluigi

• Nov 22, 2018

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• #9 of 24

keep in mind the stud spacing of a foam board, often the spacing is down to 300mm on your vertical studs.

 

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STEvieXE

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423

N. Ireland

• Nov 22, 2018

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• #10 of 24

A foam board?

Sorry I'm not following?

 

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Waluigi

• Nov 22, 2018

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• #11 of 24

Ok, when you say cement board, generally people think you’re talking about Hardiebacker or Aquapanel etc. A foam board or XPS board is a lightweight foam board with cement coating on both sides, like Wedi, Marmox, Dukka etc.

Foam boards generally require more studs than the likes of the true rigid cement boards, especially when you’re dealing with boards that tend to be 600mm wide. Unless you increase the thickness of the board. For example a 12mm Wedi Board usually requires vertical studs @ 300mm centres whereas a 20mm Wedi Board will be fine with 600mm studs.

 

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STEvieXE

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21

423

N. Ireland

• Nov 22, 2018

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• #12 of 24

Ah so it needs more vertical studs for screws at smaller centres!

 

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STEvieXE

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423

N. Ireland

• Nov 28, 2018

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• #13 of 24

Update! After the joiner not ringing me all week as promised to board my wall I threw the head up this morning, took s half day from work and went and bought wall hardie backer, tape and screws! Finally got the plasterboard down and new hardie backer up.

As it will be tanked what way does that work in conjunction with the Hardiebacker tape and adhesive over the joints?

So I need to get the tiles to tape and skim the joints and then come back to tank over the top?

 

S

STEvieXE

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21

423

N. Ireland

• Nov 28, 2018

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• #14 of 24

 

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Waluigi

• Nov 28, 2018

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• #15 of 24

Two choices- tape the joints with alkaline resistant tape and tile adhesive, tank the next day. Or tape and tank the joints with your tanking membrane.

Prime beforehand whatever you do.