Discuss Outdoor Tiling | Tiling outdoors in the UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

Recently installed outdoor porcelain tiles (Quarziti 2.0) over a gravel/sand base using sand instead of grout between the tiles; and several of the tiles have a crunching sound when walking on them. Have tapped them all in and put weight on them, but some just still making noise. Does this work itself out or do i need to reinstall (perhaps thicker base?).

Thanks In Advance!
 
You need a solid base - it’s not like laying paving slabs!

But the website for the product says: Outdoor porcelain pavers can be dry laid onto grass, gravel, dirt and sand - or onto terraces and roofs using raised supports - without grout, adhesives or specialized workers, making installation incredibly easy.

 

Dan

Admin
Staff member
5,088
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Staffordshire, UK
Laid on grass?!?!?!? WTF!!!!
Lmao

Those suppliers need change their advice and learn how to fit them themselves on grass see if they recommend that then!

(Note that this is a USA member and supplier so respondents need to perhaps consider that when advising, not that much can be done now?!)
 
Last edited:
I

Italy

yes, 20mm can be laid on grass or sand,
just carry out the right procedure.
over time some may move,
but the accommodation is fast.
but I've never tried laying on sand.
 
Hi All,

I am looking to install normal outdoor porcelain tile (8mm) over existing brick pavers. I could remove brick pavers as well but I am not sure how do I need to prepare the ground for tiling. For tiling over existing brick pavers, I am thinking to wash and prime brick paver and do sand and cement bedding (about 20-30mm thick) to lay tile over it.

Another option that I have seen on your tubes is to remove brick pavers and then put about 50mm compacted road base and then sand & cement bedding on that to lay tiles.

With both options, I am also not sure if the normal outdoor porcelain tiles which are about 8mm thick would be strong enough? Normally outdoor paves are 20mm thick. The reason for going for normal outdoor tile is cost. 20mm pavers are too expensive compared to 8mm outdoor tile.

Please suggest what would be better way to do it. I also considered just laying concrete with dimond cut pattern to make it look like tiles but thats bit expensive as well ($60 per sqm).

Thanks a lot.
 

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We have an original, Victorian quarry tile path leading to our front door.
Several of the tiles are cracked or loose and need replacing.
The tiles are laid on compacted earth which is very solid (photo attached).

Is it worthwhile lifting the broken tiles out, replacing with reclaimed equivalents and then grouting in with flexible grout? Or is this a short-term fix, and the whole path should be lifted and relaid on a new cement base?

DIY'er - so appreciate any advice

IMG_3610.JPG


IMG_3575.JPG
 

DIYDan

-
1
38
UK
I've had some great advice on here before and i'm back for some more - mainly about adhesive choice.

I built a gazebo in the back garden earlier this year and have put a hot tub under it. The concrete has been down for 3 months and it'll be 2-3 months max before i start this job, so still quite "fresh". I plan on using standard dotti r9 tiles (prob 300x300) straight on to the concrete, but as the concrete is so new i'm not sure if i should use a decoupling mat (if so, which one?) and i have no clue what adhesive i need and how thick i should trowel it.

The tub is 2.1m x 2.1m and would easily tip 2.5 T when full of water and people. Ideally i need something that will cure up quickly enough that i can get the hot tub moved back on to it in 2-3 days max - even if i had to wait maybe another few days before refilling it. It also needs to be suitable for outdoor use and easy enough to work with for a DIYer. I could tile around the tub without moving it, but it would probably look a bit half-assed and would have the potential to retain water underneath the tub, which i don't want. The total area is roughly 9m2.

Any advice, tips, pointers gratefully received.

2021-06-04_11-17-46.jpg
 

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