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The black with mesh is RIW Tilesafe membrane, aka “The Devil’s flypaper “. This is indeed the waterproofing membrane, which you have now f***ked, it is a bitumen based membrane that has fallen out of favour. It is very effective but quite tricky to work with and therefore outside a lot of...

Personally I use a 4” grinder with an expensive continuous rim blade. Others may suggest a wet tile cutter, but quicker and less clear up if you just use a grinder outside

Oh dear. Dot and dab and no back buttering of tiles. This is typical cowboy work using the lash clips to get a good looking finish, hiding the fact that unacceptably low coverage has been achieved by poor working methods.

Yes they do need Silicon- are you thinking of doing the work yourself? Better get reading or you’ll have a disaster on your hands… To prevent mould: use a good quality Silicon and apply it properly (no licked fingers…), ventilate the room properly, heat the room properly.

Your plasterboard looks as though it is skimmed and painted? If so the weight limit is 20kg/m2 and you also need to remove all traces of paint. If it were me I’d remove the existing board and start again. I’d also put in timber noggins wherever fixings are needed ( eg basin etc. It’s such a...

Mitre the internal corners. Exposed edges, if tiles are stacked I would just finish with no trim. If brick bond, so cut edges, then trim up to border tile as you say. Border tile on exposed edge, just use a whole tile and fill the end with grout.

Any acrylic primer diluted 1:3 with water, I I I use Ultratile.

Yes remove all the plaster if shot. Yes dot and dab plasterboard adhesive is adequate - remember to have a continuous horizontal bead of adhesive at floor and ceiling level ( this is for fire safety reasons) Also remember one or two screws at high level, though a dab, once the adhesive has set -...

Screw boards down so no movement or squeaking, otherwise this will still happen once tiled. The tile adhesive is primarily to ensure that there are no voids under the hardiebacker, so no flexing should occur. The boards are actually held in place by the screws rather than the adhesive / if...

Well done, that’s a great result. What are those tiles, out of interest?

If they are significantly bowed then to ensure against lippage the overlap should be reduced to, say, 1/4 of the plank length. To be honest I usually think this shape of tile look best with a staggered, non-repeated overlap (often achieved by using the off cut from one end to start the next row...

You’ve made a nice job of it, charge a lot! How long does it take you to do? Then work out how much that needs to be per m2 to get your wages right.

Very nice. Hope you’ve got soft water there with all the black fittings!

Probably caused by using a Stanley knife to remove excess adhesive from joints prior to grouting.

Depending on size and design of room etc, you could just dot/dab plasterboard on that wall to run the wall straight into the window and do away with the little return.

Self levelling compound is the way to go.

I wouldn’t use 18 mm ply on 450 centres, bouncy bouncy.

Just slide the primer under the tanking then carry on.

Hardie backer or STS cement board

No I shouldn’t think so 25