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If you know it’s not right, remove the tiles now before grouting and go it again. With multiple cuts you should be able to get a tile off - adhesive is “green” for a while so sooner the better.

Don’t cut the tiles one in from end , especially bevelled metros!, it will look rubbish - honestly it’ll stick out like a sore thumb! Looks like you have a 1700 bath, so about 8 1/2 metros across. I’d start whole tile (or fraction less, depending on if adjacent wall leans in/out) at one end...

I think you’ve actually got that the wrong way around! Because there are products like tile backer etc - they have changed the standards so you are forced to use their expensive products… as you say in previous post, you’ve never had a failure on ply!

No , it’s because you shouldn’t really tile onto ply these days as it’s all rubbish!! In any case if us much better to tile onto cement board, and 12mm is extremely stiff and great for structural boxing.

What was the screed; in terms of mix and thickness? Is there underfloor heating, if so what type?

Remove the ply and re-clad your framework with 12mm hardibacker- then tile it. If your ply was 18 mm and you’ve cut some wall hung elements to suit that thickness- then: construct the framework with 12mm hardie and then overboard with 6mm hardie to make up the thickness. (Or put 6m ply...

Yeah no worries, you’ve made a nice job of the actual tiling by the way. In future , I would always try to avoid slithers as they look like a mistake. Plenty of “professional” tilers do it too, blindly centring each wall regardless as “that’s what I always do”. Trust your instincts rather than...

Since you ask; I would have it off centre but with equal sized cuts on alternate rows at opposite ends so it is symmetrical. eg say your wall is 1040 and your tiles are 500 Centred you get 20/500/500/20 and 270/500/270. My method you get 145/500/395 and 395/500/145.

Don’t really need a whacker, I just use a punner - if you haven’t got one you can use a sledgehammer with of without a small square of ply.

Driving vehicles on it or just walking?

Why have you set them out with such small cuts? It looks pretty bad to say the least…

Leave a gap, otherwise you have no room for adjustment. I personally leave 3 or 4” and fill with gravel/stone chips to lessen splashing up the wall

Therein lies one of the many skills a tiler needs to master, work clean! If you do it properly no adhesive should squeeze through, but a damp sponge used immediately is the best way to clean it off if it does.

How far below the damp course are you?

If you can’t be bothered to do it properly that’s up to you, but don’t expect me to say yeah that’ll be fine.

I would chip off the existing adhesive . If the wall is flat and truish, acrylic prime the wall and then trowel it up with notched towel using tile adhesive and notch up the back of the wedi too- in other words treat it as a big tile. Use a straight length of CLS to bang the board back firm and...

No that’s fine, as far as I can see you’ve got trim on external corner where tile meets tile and no trims where tile meets wall. What’s wrong with that? (In my opinion wall/tile transition is usually nearer with no trim) As for tiling right up to cabinets, depends what was agreed - here the...

Yes cross batten the ceiling with 2x1 roofing batten, then 12.5 plasterboard and skim- you’ll be there. Check first for level and run offs, use CLS (38mm) instead of batten if levels are off as this will give you another 15mm of leeway overall.

Either method would work. I would use the thicker board and use tile adhesive to attach it , then fix with a few washers once it’s all set- allthough tbh I don’t think they’re really needed. The advantage of this method over battens is that it is quicker and easier to get a perfectly flat and...

40 days plus 120 days = 160 days, which is just over 5 months. Surely you looked into this at an earlier stage? I am assuming a sand/cement screed; other screeds will have different drying times- ask whoever laid the screed.