Search results

Yeah, it's simple enough to find out ratios and patterns of multi-format tiles, but it still relies upon the tiler picking the correct pattern, and there will be absolutely no instruction on the grout joint size, which is critical on the execution. Cutting-down tiles is simply not an option.

All multi-format tiles need a pattern and grout joint width specified prior to laying. If this isn't supplied, then the tiler will have to guess on the best layout pattern. This will result in excess and lack of one or another size of tile. Chipped-edge travertine tends not to have a grout...

Boggs is right. It's impossible to follow a grain throughout the wall unless you are specifically buying tiles that do it. Firstly, don't try and sort natural effect tiles unless you want a pile of boxes and chipped tiles. They are off-set laser printed tiles. The best thing to do is to work...

Apply another top screed is the only way. Boarding over with a cement board will create a major heat barrier from the existent UFH. I'm afraid you'll have to pay up to save.

Maybe YouTube? Ha ha.

Sorry that I cant help. This is a ceramic tilers website. Plastic and carpet tiles are floor layers and carpet fitters area of expertise.

As long as the floor is stable, flat, and de-coupled and use good gear, you shouldn't have a worry in world.

Me neither, so...?

20mm round-edge thick-bed-solid-bed (Californian)

Standard as any other marble or natural tile: If the floor is really all over, level first with a suitable levelling compound. Install a de-coupling membrane on the floor. Level if necessary with a suitable levelling compound. Tile with a white adhesive suitable for large format and to the...

Its a simple case of movement. The tiler you employed did not do one of the following: Assess and prepare the sub-floor sufficiently, identify the substrate, advise on curing times or use the correct materials in order to fix tiles. Or simply consider it unfit to receive tiles.

If I was in your position, as you seem to have followed curing times and correct commissioning routine: I'd firstly question the priming and adhesive selection, then if all that is in order, it might come down to the incorrect mixing ratios of the initial screed or tile adhesive. It's not...

Buy it off Ebay?

If the grout has has cracked, then it's tile failure I'm afraid, and that means ripping it all up and starting again. It's a failed installation. Sorry.

If your shower area isn't tanked (water-proof sealed) though out the entire room, and presented as a wet-room before any wall and floor tiling, then it doesn't really matter what grout is used, as it won't prevent water-damage to the room if you are using as it an unprepared wet-room I'm afraid...

The only answer to properly mixed and applied grout that cracks after installation, is only ever one simple thing. Movement of the tiles. This is logically and surely 100% the reason. Sub-floor movement, incorrect boarding prior to tiling, incorrect adhesive or not complying to UFHeating curing...

Hi mate, I'd turn the job down. Stupid size, which will definitely have a bow in them, so you'll be attempting to lift a very heavy and no doubt rectified edge tile off a wall that isn't flat enough, and then you'll have to take it off again. And once more when the next one goes on. By this...

Good method, apart from using timber batons. However, that doesn't matter as i understand you are concerned about holes in the tanking membrane? Just fill the holes with tanking paint or Silicon before fixing the bottom course. Easy.

"I never tile over tiles". You've just answered your own doubt, and you should stick by it, as you have no idea how good the existing tiles are, unless you smash up a few and look for fractures throughout.