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Fail to prepare, prepare to fail. All the walls need to be + or - 4mm over a 2m length. You’ll struggle if these Building Regulations for tiling are not met.

Sad news that another British manufacturer bites the dust with job losses, but I have to say that in my experience, the quality of their ceramic tiles is sketchy: I’ve been asked to fix exactly the same tile for 2 different customers 2 years apart. One set were fine, the other set were bowed...

A late reply, but it's a simple mistake: No DPM installed after excavation. It's the very first thing that should have been done after drainage measures.

Short courses are a worthless waste of money my friend. You'll need to get on a proper 2 year course with a reputable building college in your area whilst shadowing a pro tiler over the same length of time if you want to enter somebodies house with confidence and improve their lives with good...

Like I said. It depends if you have the strength and money to not earn much for at least 2 years and then take up a physical job. These 2 week courses advertised everywhere are a load of rubbish. You will learn NOTHING of fixing tiles in the real world.

The quality of mosaic tiles varies vastly with price and manufacturers. Where did you buy them and for how much per sqm? (High quality glass mosaics can cost upwards of £100 per 300mm x 300mm sheet)

This is a very interesting question which is close to my heart and I might be able to give you some useful advice on, as I was in a similar position to you when I was 30: I decided that I was fed up with working for other people, and thought that tiling would be a good trade to get into as...

If I solve the problem, can I get a free holiday in the USA?

Hi Tom, Thanks for the reply. I'll try and help you out if possible. Tilers take exception to people, builders and DIYers who are sure they can/have tile/tiled as you've probably worked out?

I tank the whole area up to the ceiling. Only takes a little bit longer in time and the jointing tape is begging to be be painted over. Just do it.

Huge, thick porcelain paving slabs are not tilers jobs. There was a time when tilers used to tile patios, but the new idea is to get builders to lay porcelain slabs like paving-stones on a poor base. Won't last as a trend I reckon.

Don't attempt to tile it. Unsuitable.

Grout joint 1.5 mm?

Hi Tom, I have to pick you up on one issue on your plans: the minimum joint width on a tiled floor is a 4 mm grout joint. That is standard and of Building Regulations for Tiling. I can assure you that 1.5 mm is FAR too limiting when it comes to fixing tiles. At best, even rectified Italian...

The plaster is shot, weak, dried out and unsuitable to receive tiles. You will need to completely rip-out this room of all old plaster back to brick, rip out all plasterboard and dri-line all walls prior to tiling.

No mate, I was talking about a timber floor when I talked about movement and covering with cement board to strengthen any vertical bounce. As you well know, concrete floors suffer from lateral movement sometimes, and that is where anti-fracture mats and screeds come into play.

The plaster wasn’t dry. Your room was cold/unvented and damp. A major reason why the primer didn’t absorb.

Very poor installation in the first place. An absolute disaster waiting to happen as there is not a solid-bed thick-bed adhesive bond from the tile to the floor. A dismal installation that I’m surprised has lasted this long.

Not suitable to tile. Think of another flooring type.