1200X600X12 porcelain cutting and general advice

[serval]

Im going to be tiling my shower room walls and floor with some large format tiles as per the title.

Having only used 600X300 on mt Kitchen an downstairs bathroom I dont think my 40 quid plasplugs wet saw will be up to this job!
(In actual fact I have cut porcelain tiles with it before, but threes no way id get these tiles stable on the cutting bed which is the problem)

I've used a 4 inch grinder with a diamond blade in the past with fairly good results but generally only use that on cut edges that get hidden as the cuts are never 100% perfect and straight so im looking for recommendations for a decent electric saw that I can rent out. (Never been a fan of and had much luck with manual cutters)

Has anyone got any suggestions on something that i can rent to do the job? currently looking at this

In terms of laying the tiles, what sort of adhesive bed thickness should I be aiming for and what kind of spacing gap should i leave between tiles?

Any thing i need to be prepared for having not worked with tiles this size before?

Thanks

 

[J K Tiling Cornwall]

I would use a angle grinder with a abracs diamond blade in (from Toolstation). Once worn in produces incredibly clean cuts. Would rest the tile on a piece of celotex/kingspan when cutting. Look at using a tile levelling clip system. Would use a 2mm (3mm max) spacing width. Use a decent sized floor trowel even for the walls. Hope it all goes well 👍

 

[serval]

Thanks for the reply.

Ive used an earbauer turbo diamond blade in the past with fairly decent results... Any minor chipping just tided up witha a diamond pad.

Will give that abracs blade a try and see how i get on.

Do you guys use any sort of straight edge to a start of those long straight cuts or is it all just a case of a steady freehand plus practice?

 

[Travee]

Here's me rambling for a while...Lots of pros I work with don't even bring a wet saw unless there is slate or glass involved, and rip 4' or longer pieces with angle grinder when they are in a pinch. A good blade on an angle grinder can give a very clean result with next to no chipping. Some of that depends on the tile also. I have had some porcelain with very delicate glazes that like to chip no matter what. Anyway, here's my process...

I mark one side of a 4' tile with a marker, then mark the other side, draw the line thru with a straight edge, then set it up at a comfortable height outside (I set it on a couple garbage bins) and freehand it. I do have a lot of experience and a steady arm. I am right handed, so I keep the piece I want to keep towards the left. My angle grinder does a clean cut on one side, but I dont focus on keeping a clean cut on the off-cut piece, (the right side in this case). I use a 4/12" Angle Grinder blade with a thin kerf (1.8mm), and smooth pattern. Not segmented. Blade guard removed.

If you want a particularly nice edge for maybe an outside corner like a niche, or curb, then you can have a soaking sponge handy, and use your other hand to squeeze some water to the blades path. It can get messy, and the grinder might chew up your sponge, but it does work. I don't really think it's worth it for the effort, but maybe for you it will be. Whatever approach you decide, I expect you will try a few test cuts first. Make sure the grinder blade is well seated and centered. It should not bounce on the tile.

As for installing the tile of that size...I highly recommend flattening the walls/floor with a straight edge before setting tiles. I mix up some regular consistency thinset, and then apply a coat on the walls and drag the straight edge either horizontally or vertically depending on which dimension needs the most flattening. Fill the low spots with thinset. Usually I get away with only one pass, holding the edge horizontally and dragging it up the wall, all the way to where your tile will stop. It can get messy, protect the floor if youve set the tile already. I like to do this to each surface, after the waterproofing step and let it dry overnight. If the wall isn't flat enough after a horizontal pass, do another coat holding the edge vertically, and dragging it side to side.

This step might seem like overkill, and it probably is when combined with a levelling clips system. But I HATE pulling tiles off of the wall, having to pack more thinset in, pulling them off again, and having to adjust the one above it or underneath it again...etc etc. It can lose so much time fiddilng around like that. I like to do the flattening all at once. I bust out my set of straight edges and margin trowel float for wiping off the straight edges without gouging them.

I also use 1mm levelling clips, but thats a bit small for beginning. Go for 2mm, or bigger if you notice there is variance in the sizing of the tiles. I recommend a 1/2" Square notch, and flat trowel the back of each piece before you put it onto the fresh ridges and tap it with a mallet to collapse the ridges.

Enough rambling. XD

 

[serval]

Thanks @Travee for providing such a detailed reply.

Some good pointers that should hopefully make things go a bit smoother

 

[Alf_Laden]

That was a very useful read Travee (please ramble more!!), as I'm doing my first porcelain tiling project, and will have to do a few U-cuts for a niche which I can't (easily) do on my static-disc wet saw, so contemplating doing it freehand with a grinder (but only have a cheap erbauer disc). Great tips on levelling the wall first with thinset - have just done the same after having to "back-fill" a few tiles after placing onto the wall.

 

[Taylormade]

If you struggle to do a straight cut then clamp another tile on top of the one you’re cutting to use as a straight edge Carefully run your diamond blade along the tile edge to score the tile you want to cut. Remove clamps and you should have a nice straight line to follow with your grinder.